2018 Tokaji Oremus Aszu 5 Puttonyos 500ml, Hungary

The golden wines of Tokaj have captivated European royalty and wine lovers for centuries, and Oremus is one of the region's most distinguished estates. Acquired by Spain's Vega Sicilia group in 1993, the historic property has played an important role in restoring the international reputation of Hungarian Tokaji. Its vineyards occupy some of the finest sites around Tolcsva, where volcanic soils, autumn mists and the influence of the Bodrog and Tisza rivers create ideal conditions for noble rot. The estate's Aszú 5 Puttonyos is a magnificent expression of this extraordinary winemaking tradition.

The 2018 is made primarily from Furmint, with other traditional Tokaj varieties contributing to the blend. Aszú berries are individually selected after being affected by Botrytis cinerea, the noble rot that concentrates their sugars, acidity and aromatic complexity. These intensely sweet berries are macerated with a base wine before fermentation and maturation in oak. The five puttonyos designation indicates a richly concentrated style, although the remarkable natural acidity of Furmint ensures the sweetness never becomes overwhelming. The 500ml bottle is a lovely format for sharing something genuinely special.

Deep golden amber with brilliant highlights. Dried apricot, orange marmalade and ripe quince rise from the glass, followed by acacia honey, candied ginger and saffron. Notes of pineapple, baked apple, toasted almond and a delicate suggestion of tea add further complexity. The palate is luscious and beautifully concentrated, with honeyed stone fruit, citrus preserve and exotic spice balanced by a thrilling line of acidity. There is a wonderful tension between sweetness and freshness, while hints of caramelised orange peel and mineral spice carry through an exceptionally long, fragrant finish.

Blue cheese, particularly Roquefort or Stilton, makes a wonderful contrast to its honeyed richness. Foie gras is a traditional match, but roast pumpkin with whipped goat's cheese and toasted walnuts is equally appealing. For dessert, consider apricot tart, poached quince, almond cake or a delicate crème brûlée. It is also magnificent enjoyed slowly on its own, when there is time to appreciate every little detail.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2050+. The concentration, acidity and noble rot complexity give this Tokaji exceptional ageing potential, with decades of development ahead under good storage conditions.