2018 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin La Grande Dame Brut, Champagne

A lovely perfume of subtle cooked apples, heather, jasmine and flint follows through to a medium body with a dense palate of fruit. Hints of pears and lychees with some honey and a touch of marzipan. A blend of 90% pinot noir and 10% chardonnay. Drink or hold.

94 points James Suckling

Created as a tribute to one of Champagne's most remarkable figures, La Grande Dame honours Madame Barbe Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, the visionary widow who transformed her family's wine business into one of the world's great Champagne houses. Introduced in 1972 to celebrate the bicentenary of Veuve Clicquot, La Grande Dame represents the pinnacle of the house's winemaking. Today, Cellar Master Didier Mariotti continues the philosophy established by his predecessors, crafting a cuvée that showcases the extraordinary role of Pinot Noir in the Veuve Clicquot style.

The 2018 vintage was exceptional in Champagne, combining generous sunshine with ideal ripening conditions. The blend is dominated by Pinot Noir sourced from the house's historic Grand Cru vineyards, supported by Chardonnay that brings precision and elegance. The result is a Champagne of power, finesse and remarkable purity. Extended ageing on lees has added layers of complexity while preserving the vibrant freshness that marks the vintage.

A brilliant golden colour is illuminated by an energetic stream of ultra fine bubbles. The aromas unfold gradually with white peach, ripe pear and citrus blossom, followed by layers of toasted brioche, almond, hazelnut and delicate hints of ginger and chalk. The palate is both generous and remarkably precise, delivering flavours of lemon curd, stone fruits and baked apple wrapped around a core of crystalline minerality. The texture is silky and refined, yet there is impressive concentration beneath the surface. A persistent finish reveals notes of pastry, roasted nuts and saline freshness that linger long after each sip.

Magnificent with lobster thermidor, grilled crayfish, caviar, scallops with beurre blanc or a delicate turbot dish. It is equally compelling served on its own, allowing the complexity and precision of the wine to take centre stage. Although already stunning, the structure and balance suggest a long future ahead, with further complexity likely to emerge over the next fifteen to twenty years.