2019 d'Arenberg Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier, McLaren Vale

The Osborn family has been farming in McLaren Vale since 1912, and fourth generation winemaker Chester Osborn has spent decades pushing the boundaries of what the region's varieties can do.

The Laughing Magpie holds a particular place in that story. When Chester planted Viognier alongside the family's Shiraz in the late 1990s, he created McLaren Vale's first ever co-fermented Shiraz Viognier blend. The name came from his daughters, who nicknamed the wild Kookaburras in their garden "Laughing Magpies" — the black and white plumage a fitting symbol for the black Shiraz and its white partner.

The 2019 vintage tested McLaren Vale's growers considerably. A dry winter left soils short of moisture heading into the season, and a severe heat event peaking at a record 46.6°C impacted most varieties.

Small batches of Shiraz (95%) and Viognier (5%) were gently crushed and co-fermented in open fermenters, with foot treading undertaken two thirds of the way through fermentation. The wine was then basket pressed and transferred to old French oak to complete fermentation and mature on lees, with no racking until final blending and no fining or filtration.

This wine opens with black cherry, ripe blackberry and dark chocolate on the nose, with a lifted floral quality from the Viognier threading through the darker fruit. The palate is generous and full-bodied, with dark fruit, Dutch liquorice and a savoury thyme note.

It rewards serious protein on the plate to balance the notable tannins —  try it with some slow-roasted lamb or beef ribs.

Drink now with a generous exposure to air.