2021 Koomilya GT Block Shiraz, McLaren Vale

Native ferment with 20% whole bunches and 16 days on skins; maturation in a 2800L oak vat. Although the most lifted and fragrant of the Koomilya shiraz triad, this has the same drive and effortless power, and at relatively modest alcohol. Musky, dusky florals, panforte spicing, dried orange peel, blackberry pastille, salumi, coal dust, iron, black coffee and fresh cherry pulp. This is the least upholstered of the block trio, which is neither here nor there, but there is a certain drive and relative lightness that distinguishes it as something quite individual, and also quite special.

96 points Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

A single block Shiraz from 31-year-old vines grafted on Gewurztraminer planted in 1974 by Jill and Don Cant, the previous owners. Grown on ancient, dark grey slaty siltstone laminated with ironstone facing South at an altitude of 116m.

Unmistakably Upper Tintara, undeniably Koomilya.