2019 Lethbridge Allegra Chardonnay, Geelong

An excellent release of this unique Australian chardonnay, held back five years in bottle before release. Aromas of lemon confit, oyster shells, grapefruit, salted nuts, lanolin and struck matches, with a quartz undertone. The palate is tightly wound, with pure mineral acidity and a rounded, textural mouthfeel that gives both generous fruit and a hint of reduction. Outstanding power and grace, with no sign of the 100% new French oak. Exceptional. Drink or hold.

97 points James Suckling, August 2025

A difficult vintage but Allegra, which is sourced from the oldest chardonnay vineyard in Geelong at Mt Duneed, shines. A tightly coiled, thrilling chardonnay. White peach, nectarine, flinty grapefruit, lemon curd and nougatine, nutty oak, not to forget the herbs (lemon thyme) and spice, is all here. Length and fine acid drive are impressive. A quiet power lives here. Drink 2022 to 2027.

95 points Jeni Port for Halliday Wine Companion, August 2022

Deep-straw in the glass, looking good for a six year old wine. Complex and lifted aromas of bacon fat, quince, baked apple, nougat, marmalade, grilled nuts and sweet spice. Mouth-filling, creamy and nutty, with lovely intensity and flow. Flavours of pineapple, tangello, yogurt and nutty oak are all at play. Drinking very nicely. Drink 2025 to 2028.

93 points Aaron Brasher for The Real Review, March 2025

Ray Nadeson and Maree Collis established Lethbridge in 1996 in the Moorabool Valley, northwest of Geelong, on a site with viticultural roots stretching back to 1874. Biodynamic farming and minimal intervention in the winery have been central to the Lethbridge philosophy from the outset.

The Allegra is named after their daughter and is only made when the vintage warrants it. The fruit comes from the Rebenberg Vineyard at Mount Duneed, planted in 1981 and the oldest Chardonnay vineyard in Geelong. The vines produce extraordinarily low yields of around 12 hectolitres per hectare from gravel and quartz soils, delivering the fruit density, natural acidity and mineral character that make the Allegra unlike any other Australian Chardonnay.

The 2019 was a challenging vintage, yet the Rebenberg Vineyard delivered with quiet authority. Hand-picked and whole bunch pressed directly into 100% new French oak puncheons, fermented with wild yeasts and aged on lees for around 13 months before a five-year rest in bottle prior to release.

Lemon confit, grapefruit, white peach and nectarine on the nose, layered with lemon thyme, struck match, salted nuts and a quartz mineral thread. The palate is tightly wound and pure, with mineral acidity and a generous, textural mouthfeel that speaks of both power and grace.

Steamed abalone with ginger and spring onion, or a classic sole meunière would both reward the wine's mineral precision and textural depth. Why not both? Menu planning done.