2025 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley

The weight of the palate here feels special. In fact the presence of this riesling, which is essentially frisky and, at that, only a few months old, is pretty remarkable. It tastes of stones, bath salts, florals and citrus, a gunmetal aspect lurking within. The purity of the fruit here, and the power of it, and the chalky, stony impression of the finish, all served in the context of flavour-filled, mouthwatering acidity: it’s all as delicious as it is a statement on quality. Superb release.

96 points Campbell Mattinson thewinefront.com.au

The Grosset Polish Hill Riesling from Clare Valley is one of Australia’s most celebrated white wines, a benchmark Riesling that has achieved cult status worldwide. Jeffrey Grosset, often called the “Riesling King,” first produced Polish Hill in 1981, sourcing fruit from a rocky, slate-laden vineyard planted in 1996. Situated at around 460 metres elevation, the site is unforgiving, with shallow soils that naturally limit yields and concentrate flavour. The result is a Riesling of extraordinary intensity, minerality and longevity that consistently ranks among the best in the world.

In the glass, the wine is pale straw with green highlights. The nose is tightly coiled and mineral-driven, with aromas of lime zest, lemon blossom, crushed stone and hints of jasmine and bath salts. The palate is pure and focused, with searing acidity driving flavours of citrus, green apple and slate. A fine chalky texture underpins the structure, leading to a long, taut and precise finish. It is a wine of tension and purity, often described as crystalline, that rewards patience in the cellar.

Food pairings should emphasise freshness and delicacy: natural oysters, grilled marron, sashimi, Thai green papaya salad or lightly spiced Asian seafood dishes. The wine’s rapier-like acidity also makes it a beautiful match for creamy goat’s cheese or lemony roast chicken. While thrilling young, it is famous for its cellaring ability, comfortably ageing 20 years or more, gaining layers of honey, toast and kerosene while maintaining its citrus backbone.

Critics have consistently rated Polish Hill as one of Australia’s greatest white wines, often awarding it scores in the 96–99 point range. It has topped international Riesling tastings and is regularly cited as the pinnacle of Clare Valley Riesling. Collectors prize it for both its drinkability and its proven longevity, making it one of the most sought-after bottles in the country.