2019 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Cuvee Paradoxe 1er Cru, Champagne

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils is famous for Chardonnay, so Cuvée Paradoxe is exactly what the name suggests: a deliberate twist in the story. Didier and Olivier Gimonnet created it to explore Pinot Noir alongside the Côte des Blancs Chardonnay that has defined the family for generations. The house is based in Cuis, with deep vineyard holdings across some of the Côte des Blancs’ most celebrated villages and a reputation built on freshness, chalk and beautifully expressive fruit.

Paradoxe combines Pinot Noir with Chardonnay, giving it a broader, more vinous personality than the classic Gimonnet style. The 2019 vintage was warm and dry, producing ripe, concentrated fruit while the chalky vineyards retained valuable freshness. Pinot Noir contributes red fruit, spice and structure, while Chardonnay keeps the wine lifted and energetic. It is a particularly interesting bottle for anyone who knows Gimonnet primarily through its Blanc de Blancs Champagnes.

Pale gold with a fine bead and the faintest suggestion of copper. Red apple, raspberry and wild strawberry mingle with lemon, white peach and pink grapefruit, followed by brioche, toasted almond and gentle spice. The palate has lovely depth, its red fruit and citrus wrapped around a creamy mousse, with fresh acidity keeping everything moving. Chalk, almond, citrus peel and a subtle savoury note shape the long, dry finish.

Peking duck pancakes make a cracking partner, the Pinot Noir component having enough red fruit and structure to handle the duck while Chardonnay keeps everything fresh. Seared tuna, grilled king prawns, salmon sashimi or mushroom and Gruyère tart would also sit happily alongside.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2038.