2019 Rob Dolan White Label Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarra Valley

In a generous vintage, this looks stern. Fragrant though with cassis and mulberries, cloves and cedary oak. The aromas don't translate well to flavours on the palate. Sinewy tannins and brusque. It might just be youth, so give this time.

87 points Jeni Port winecompanion.com.au

The Rob Dolan White Label Cabernet Sauvignon from the Yarra Valley is a fine example of how this cool-climate region can shape Cabernet into something elegant, aromatic and finely structured. Rob Dolan, one of the Yarra’s most respected and long-standing figures, has built his reputation on wines that reflect both generosity and finesse. The White Label range sits at the heart of his portfolio, crafted to highlight regional character with polish and approachability.

Cabernet Sauvignon has a long history in the Yarra Valley, thriving on the region’s varied soils and cool but even ripening conditions. The fruit for this wine is carefully selected from established vineyards across the valley, where gravelly soils and long autumns provide both concentration and natural acidity. In the winery, fermentation takes place in open fermenters with gentle plunging, followed by maturation in French oak, which adds complexity without overpowering the fruit.

In the glass the wine shows a deep crimson hue. The nose is fragrant and inviting, with lifted aromas of blackcurrant, mulberry and dark cherry, layered with bay leaf, graphite, cedar and subtle spice. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced, offering juicy dark fruits framed by fine tannins and bright acidity. Hints of tobacco leaf, earth and cocoa add savoury detail, while the finish is long, supple and precise – a signature of Yarra Cabernet.

Food pairings suit its elegance and structure: roast lamb with rosemary, duck breast with cherry glaze, chargrilled vegetables, or a wild mushroom risotto. Hard cheeses such as Manchego or aged cheddar also pair well. With 8 to 12 years of cellaring potential, this wine will evolve gracefully, developing savoury and tertiary notes while retaining its core of vibrant fruit.