2023 Place of Changing Winds Tradition Red Organic, Heathcote

Fine, sleek and slick red, more pinot than syrah, if you get my drift, or read on and find out. Red cherry, white mushroom, tarragon and lemon verbena, white pepper, crunch of green capsicum, a touch of resinous pipe tobacco shot through. It’s a fine, light weight, zesty red wine with some slightly jangly characters between fruit, spice and mineral elements.

93+ points Mike Bennie winefront.com.au

The 2023 Place of Changing Winds Tradition Red Organic from Heathcote is a beautifully balanced and aromatic expression of Rhône-inspired winemaking from one of Victoria’s most distinctive producers. Place of Changing Winds, the project of Bibendum’s Robert Walters, is a vineyard planted at high density using strictly organic and biodynamic principles. Known for precision and detail, the estate focuses on Syrah and Grenache grown on ancient Cambrian soils, with the Tradition Red designed as the more approachable and versatile blend in the range.

In the glass it is a bright crimson with purple hues. The nose is fragrant and lifted, showing red cherry, raspberry and plum interwoven with spice, violet, garrigue herbs and a subtle earthy note. The palate is medium-bodied and vibrant, with juicy red fruits carried by fine tannins and refreshing acidity. Hints of pepper, savoury spice and mineral give depth and texture, while the finish is long, graceful and food-friendly. This cuvée reflects the estate’s philosophy of elegance over power, offering complexity without heaviness.

Food pairings suit its fragrant, lively style: roast duck with cherry glaze, lamb cutlets with rosemary, chargrilled vegetables, or mushroom risotto. It also pairs beautifully with charcuterie and semi-hard cheeses such as Manchego. Best enjoyed young for its energy and purity, though it will develop more savoury complexity over 6 to 8 years.