2019 Tokaji Oremus Aszu 3 Puttonyos 500ml, Hungary

Tropical fruit and jasmine aromas leap out of each glass of this sweet wine made from grapes grown on old vines on a renowned estate. There are honey, baked figs and peaches, and roasted pineapple flavors offset by bright acidity and followed by a long, beautifully tart finish.

94 points Wine Enthusiast

Oremus, owned by the Álvarez family of Vega Sicilia, has been instrumental in restoring Tokaj to its rightful place among the world’s great sweet wine regions. The vineyards around Tolcsva sit on volcanic soils that bring both intensity and a distinctive mineral edge, while autumn mists drifting through the valleys encourage the slow development of botrytis. The 3 Puttonyos style is the most approachable expression of Aszú, offering freshness and elegance while still carrying that unmistakable Tokaji signature.

The 2019 shows a beautiful balance between richness and lift. There’s ripe apricot, mandarin and golden peach at the core, layered with honey, orange marmalade and a touch of ginger spice. It feels silky rather than heavy, with acidity threading through the palate and keeping everything bright and precise. A faint mineral note lingers underneath, giving shape and length and drawing out the finish.

This is where contrast really comes into play. Blue swimmer crab with a hint of chilli works surprisingly well, as does roasted pork with caramelised apple or a duck dish with a touch of sweetness. It’s also right at home with classic pairings like Roquefort, aged Comté or a simple almond tart.

Drinking beautifully now, but it will continue to evolve over the next 10 to 15 years, gaining deeper honeyed complexity while holding that fresh line.