2022 Tokaji Oremus Mandolas Furmint Dry, Hungary

Exciting evolution for a wine showing greater expressive, character and moreish textural appeal. Furmint's trademark linden and chamomile notes hover over fleshy blanched almonds, quince and yellow apple. A fine layer of white pepper and nutmeg adds a spicy lift. The mid palate is unctuous, with lemon curd coating the palate. This richness is offset by a fresh mineral backbone, leading to a long toasty finish. Drink: 2025 – 2032 20 Jan 2025

93 points, Decanter

Mandolás is the dry face of Oremus, a wine that shows just how compelling Furmint can be when handled with the same care as the great sweet wines of Tokaj. The Álvarez family of Vega Sicilia have invested heavily here since the 1990s, restoring vineyards around Tolcsva where volcanic soils, loess and a cool continental climate give both ripeness and a firm mineral backbone. This is not an afterthought wine, it’s a serious expression of place.

The 2022 opens with a bright, lifted profile of lemon zest, green apple and pear, followed by quince, white flowers and a subtle hint of spice. There’s a gentle textural richness through the mid palate, but it’s quickly pulled into line by a vivid thread of acidity that gives the wine its shape and energy. A lightly smoky, mineral edge runs through the finish, keeping everything taut and refreshing rather than broad.

This is tailor made for seafood with a bit of character. Think grilled prawns with paprika and garlic, octopus with olive oil and lemon, or a plate of sardines straight off the grill. It also works beautifully with dishes that carry a touch of spice or aromatics, like Thai style fish or a lightly spiced crab salad.

Drink it over the next 5 to 8 years while that balance of fruit and freshness is at its peak, though it will pick up more savoury complexity with a bit of time in bottle.