2020 Alain et Cyril Gautheron Chablis Montmains Vieilles Vignes, 1er Cru, Burgundy

Normally 12 months in a tronconic wooden vat, then 6 more in stainless steel but though ready, The 2020 Montmains has not been bottled yet. Pale colour with a definite green tint. More fruit apparent than the Vaillons, still in a stony style. Very pure, with a steely backbone. Slightly more lemon than lime, but very much just a garnish to the stones. Long with a fine mineral thread throughout. Very persistent. Drink from 2026-2033. Tasted Jun 2022.

93 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

Alain et Cyril Gautheron Chablis Montmains Vieilles Vignes Premier Cru from Burgundy is a powerful yet beautifully precise expression of old-vine Chardonnay from one of Chablis’s most renowned Premier Cru sites. The Gautheron family has been crafting wine near Fleys, just outside the village of Chablis, for more than seven generations. Under the guidance of Cyril Gautheron, the domaine continues to produce wines that marry traditional craftsmanship with a modern focus on vineyard expression, clarity and minerality.

The fruit comes from old Chardonnay vines rooted in the clay-limestone soils of Montmains, a Premier Cru vineyard known for producing wines of tension and finesse. The vines here are deeply established, drawing on the ancient Kimmeridgian marl rich in marine fossils that gives Chablis its signature chalky mineral character. Grapes are hand picked, gently pressed and fermented with native yeasts in a mix of stainless steel and older French oak barrels. The wine then rests on its fine lees for several months, adding subtle texture and depth while preserving its vibrant freshness.

In the glass it gleams pale gold with green highlights. The aroma is pure and layered, showing lemon zest, green apple and white flowers alongside subtle notes of hazelnut, flint and sea spray. The palate is taut and elegant, with a core of citrus and orchard fruit supported by saline minerality and a touch of creamy lees texture. There’s precision and power in equal measure, leading to a long, lingering finish that feels both chalky and crystalline.

It’s superb with oysters, scallops, lobster or white fish in beurre blanc, and also pairs beautifully with roast chicken, goat cheese or creamy pasta dishes. While expressive now, it will continue to evolve gracefully for 8 to 12 years, gaining notes of brioche, almond and honey with age.