2020 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo IGT, Tuscany

The 2020 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Suolo captivates as a bouquet of dried roses and crushed stone gives red plums and spice orange peels. This is surprisingly juicy and graceful in style, sweeping across the palate with silken textures yet lifted in feel as depths of red and blueberry fruits settle on the senses. The 2020 tapers off youthfully tense and structured, leaving a tart cranberry concentration and web of fine-grained tannins that flex upon the palate. The 2020 should gain weight with cellaring, but it will always be an incredibly pretty and finessed interpretation of Vigna del Suolo. Drink: 2026 – 2036 

95 points Eric Guido, Vinous Nov 2023 

Among the finest wines produced at Argiano, Vigna del Suolo represents the estate's dedication to exceptional Sangiovese and the individual character of its vineyards. The historic Montalcino property dates back to the sixteenth century, but its recent renaissance under the direction of Bernardino Sani has brought a fresh sense of purpose to the vineyards and cellar. Organic farming, careful fruit selection and a restrained approach to winemaking have helped establish Argiano among the leading names in modern Brunello. Vigna del Suolo is the pinnacle of that work, a beautifully crafted single vineyard wine with genuine collector appeal.

The grapes come from an old vine parcel on Argiano's southwestern Montalcino slopes, where limestone rich soils contribute structure and mineral definition. The 2020 growing season produced ripe, generous fruit, making this a particularly expressive vintage without sacrificing the freshness that gives Brunello its ageing potential. Traditional maturation in large oak casks allows the Sangiovese to develop complexity while preserving its aromatic character. Compared with the more firmly structured 2019 and 2021 vintages, the 2020 has an appealing generosity, although there is plenty of depth and tannin beneath its polished exterior.

Bright ruby garnet with a luminous centre. Ripe red cherry, wild raspberry and red plum are joined by dried rose petals, violet and blood orange. As it opens, notes of liquorice, tobacco, sandalwood and crushed stone emerge. The palate is concentrated yet remarkably graceful, with succulent red fruit, finely textured tannins and a lively thread of acidity. Orange peel, dried sage and a subtle earthy character contribute savoury complexity, while the finish is long and beautifully persistent, carrying cherry, spice and a distinctive chalky freshness. There is an attractive balance between the vintage's generosity and the vineyard's natural elegance.

Porcini risotto, wild mushroom pappardelle or roasted eggplant with tomato and aged Pecorino would be excellent companions. Duck breast with cherries, slow roasted lamb with rosemary or a classic bistecca alla Fiorentina would also complement its depth and structure. An hour or two in the decanter will help reveal its finer details, although there is plenty of pleasure waiting for those prepared to give it more time in the cellar.

Cellaring: Drink 2028 to 2045+. The generous 2020 vintage has early appeal, but the structure and balance of Vigna del Suolo promise excellent development over the next two decades.