2020 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello, Piedmont

From the sloping vineyard site just below the Cantina del Pino winery, the 2020 Barbaresco Ovello always holds special significance in the hearts and minds of those who collect and drink these wines. Always reflective of the house style, the wine is open-knit and delicate on the senses, folding over the palate with delicate notes of wild berry fruit, blue flower and light touches of smoke or campfire. Production is 5,400 bottles.

94 points Monica Larner robertparker.com

Imagine plucking strawberries and raspberries straight from the bush, their freshness and tartness filling the air. Accompanying this fruit-forward bouquet are hints of wild herbs, evoking a walk through a forest, with touches of pine in the breeze. The palate is a nod to the classics, with those tart wild berries taking center stage. The fine tannins are like a gentle reminder that this wine is meant for pairing—think a rustic mushroom risotto or a herb-crusted rack of lamb. Drink from 2025.

92 points Jeff Porter wineenthusiast.com

Barbaresco. Just mid ruby. Fragrant raspberry fruit with hints of liquorice. Still a little backward on the palate but with fresh acidity and gorgeous, finely chiselled, long tannins. Great length and focus on the finish

17.5/20 jancisrobinson.com

From the elevated cru of Ovello in Barbaresco comes a Nebbiolo that captures both tradition and precision. Cantina del Pino is a small, family run estate whose roots in Ovello stretch back to the early twentieth century, when the Vacca family began cultivating these prized hillside vineyards. Today Franca Vacca continues the legacy with a focus on sustainable vineyard practices and classic, terroir driven winemaking. Ovello is known for its higher altitude and calcareous marl soils, producing Barbaresco with aromatic lift, firm structure and remarkable ageing potential.

In the glass the colour is luminous garnet with brick tinged reflections, a hallmark of Nebbiolo. The nose is layered and expressive, revealing red cherry, dried rose and wild strawberry intertwined with notes of anise, tobacco and subtle spice. There is a distinctive mineral and earthy undertone that reflects Ovello’s limestone rich soils.

On the palate it is medium to full bodied with impressive structure and poise. Bright red fruit sits at the core, framed by firm, finely etched tannins and vibrant acidity that promise longevity. Nuances of leather, dried herbs and gentle oak build through the mid palate, leading to a long, savoury finish marked by cherry skin and stony precision. It is Barbaresco with both elegance and authority.

Pair with braised beef, osso buco, wild mushroom risotto or aged Parmigiano Reggiano. While expressive now with careful decanting, this Ovello Barbaresco will cellar confidently for fifteen to twenty five years, developing layers of truffle, dried rose and savoury complexity.