2022 La Spinetta Barbaresco Bordini DOCG, Piedmont

Lots of flower petal, dried strawberry, cedar and milk chocolate character on the nose and palate. Medium- to full-bodied with tannins that build on the palate and are long and consistent. Turns soft at the end as it grows on the palate. Better in 2027 and on onwards.

95 points jamessuckling.com

The village of Neive is often considered the most elegant corner of the Barbaresco appellation, and the Bordini vineyard captures that finesse beautifully. La Spinetta, founded in 1977 by Giuseppe Rivetti and now run by his sons Giorgio, Bruno and Carlo, has become one of Piedmont’s most recognised producers. Giorgio Rivetti’s relentless focus on vineyard expression helped elevate the estate from its beginnings producing Moscato into a powerhouse of single vineyard Barbaresco and Barolo. The Bordini cru lies on calcareous clay and limestone soils that bring both perfume and structure to Nebbiolo. Compared with the estate’s more muscular sites like Starderi or Valeirano, Bordini is known for its approachability and aromatic lift, yet it still carries the depth and precision expected from the great vineyards of Neive. Careful vineyard management and controlled yields ensure fruit of exceptional concentration, while fermentation with extended maceration and maturation in French oak shape a wine that balances richness with clarity of site.

A glowing garnet hue introduces a fragrant bouquet of rose petal, red cherry and wild strawberry layered with hints of violet, spice and subtle liquorice. The palate leans toward the elegant side of Nebbiolo with supple texture and beautifully integrated tannins supporting flavours of sour cherry, raspberry and blood orange. Gentle notes of dried herbs, earth and warm spice emerge with time in the glass, adding depth without overwhelming the wine’s graceful structure. The finish is long and refined with a delicate mineral thread that reflects the limestone soils of Neive.

This Barbaresco is wonderfully suited to dishes such as roasted duck, braised veal, porcini mushroom risotto or truffle scented pasta. It will drink beautifully in its youth but can also develop additional savoury complexity over fifteen to twenty years in the cellar.