2020 d'Arenberg The Ironstone Pressings GSM, McLaren Vale

A cornerstone of the range, which has many stones, and also a blend prior critical to the region, though varietal grenache bottlings have usurped that. There’s the usual staunchness of house style here, a palisade of tannins walling a density of black and ripe red fruits, earth and spice, though the balance here leans a little more to the latter than the former. Cured meats, dried blackberry, tapenade, struck iron, raspberry coulis, poached plums with star anise, cinnamon and clove, it’s a wine that unfurls with time in glass, and a vigorous decant is advised. It’s rugged, but there’s so much on show, and it certainly rewards patience.

95 points, Marcus Ellis Halliday Australian Wine Companion 

A blend that has become a benchmark for McLaren Vale, The Ironstone Pressings takes Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre and gives them a more structured, cellar worthy frame. Chester Osborn at d’Arenberg has always leaned into traditional methods, basket pressing, small batch ferments and a hands on approach, and this wine reflects both the warmth of the Vale and a more savoury, layered style.

The 2020 vintage shows depth without losing its edge. Aromatics open with blackberry, plum and dark cherry, backed by a lift of spice, clove, anise and a touch of pepper. There is a strong savoury thread running through it, olive, dried herbs and a hint of earth, giving the wine real complexity.

On the palate it is medium to full bodied with a firm, structured feel. Tannins are present and well defined, giving the wine backbone, while the fruit remains generous but controlled. Flavours move into darker, more savoury territory, spice, herbs and a faint mineral edge, finishing long with a slightly grippy, ageworthy feel.

Winemaking follows d’Arenberg’s traditional style, minimal intervention, no fining or filtration, and careful oak use to build structure rather than polish.

This is where you can really push the boundaries with food. Slow cooked lamb shoulder with anchovy and rosemary is a natural, but it also works brilliantly with dishes like Moroccan lamb tagine with apricot, charred beef skewers with cumin and chilli, or even a smoky barbecue brisket. For something different, try it with spiced pumpkin and chickpea stew, eggplant and black garlic, or a rich lentil dish with warming spices, the wine’s savoury depth and spice stand up to bold flavours with ease.

It is still youthful and structured, best with a bit of air now, and will continue to evolve over the next ten to fifteen years, developing deeper notes of leather, spice and earthy complexity.