2022 Koomilya Estate Shiraz, McLaren Vale

Koomilya is one of McLaren Vale’s great old sites, planted back in 1890 and now in the hands of viticulturist and winemaker Dr Irina Santiago Brown. Working with these ancient, dry grown vines, her approach is very much about precision and restraint, letting the vineyard’s character come through without excess weight. It is McLaren Vale, but seen through a cooler, more structured lens.

The 2022 vintage shows both depth and composure. Dark plum and blackberry form the core, with a lift of violet and a distinct line of spice, cracked pepper, clove and a hint of anise. There is a savoury edge running underneath, olive tapenade and a touch of earth, giving the wine complexity beyond simple fruit.

On the palate it is medium to full bodied, but tightly framed rather than broad. Fine, persistent tannins give structure, while a line of freshness carries the fruit through. It feels layered and detailed, with dark fruit moving into savoury, mineral notes on a long, controlled finish. Oak is present but seamlessly integrated, adding shape rather than dominating.

Winemaking here is thoughtful and site driven, with careful extraction and a balanced use of whole bunch and oak to build complexity while preserving the vineyard’s voice. The result is a Shiraz that feels both powerful and precise, a reflection of old vines handled with a modern sensibility.

This is a natural match for richer dishes. Grilled lamb, slow roasted beef or duck all work beautifully, and it also pairs well with dishes that bring a bit of spice or char from the grill.

It will drink well now with air, but this is built to age. Ten to fifteen years will see it evolve further, with notes of leather, spice and deeper savoury complexity emerging while the structure softens.