2020 Disznoko Tokaji Late Harvest Furmint 500ml, Hungary

Aromas of dried pineapple and glazed lemons with dried flowers and spices on the nose. Medium-bodied, sleek and delicate with vivid acidity. Crunchy and medium-sweet with a flavorful, refreshing aftertaste.

91 points jamessuckling.com

95% Furmint, 5% Zeta

László Mészáros makes this late-harvest wine from mainly botrytised Furmint grapes (along with small amounts of Zéta), which have shrivelled to around half their original volume. Termed Késói Szüret (Late Harvest) in Hungarian, there is no berry-by-berry selection here as for Aszú wines. Instead, selected botrytised bunches and grape clusters are harvested and macerated briefly before pressing. The wine was racked to used French oak (including barrels from Disznókő’s sister property, Château Suduiraut in Sauternes), where it matured for 12 months.

The shorter aging has kept Furmint’s pungent and fruity aromas and flavours intact while guarding its energy and freshness. The palate strikes a terrific balance between honeycomb sweetness, candied lemon, sweet peach tea and lemon cake, and the style’s more spicy, savoury side. This wine has around 90g/L residual sugar, mopped up by the punchy acidity and gentle grip, giving a vibrant and gloriously pure expression. The finish brings more candied peel, spice and all things nice. Terrific value here. Such is the freshness; you don’t necessarily have to serve this with dessert. In fact, in Hungary, this style is often consumed as an apéritif or with goat’s cheese, charcuterie or pâté on toast.