2023 Disznoko Tokaji Furmint Dry, Hungary

Very attractive nose with notes of dried lemons, orange blossoms, dried herbs, and crushed stones. Medium-bodied, textural and crisp on a lively, energetic palate. I like the tension and crunchiness. Refreshing, citrusy finish.

92 points jamessuckling.com

Dry wines have been a feature in Hungary for at least as long as the country’s legendary sweet wines. While these have lived in the shadows of the Aszú and late-harvest wines for decades, today, 70% of Tokaj’s wine production is devoted to the dry styles. Disznókő was one of the first estates to release a dry Furmint in 1992, and unlike the region’s dry Szamorodni–made from botrytised grapes–this pure Furmint is drawn from steep, mineral-rich volcanic vineyards specifically farmed for dry-wine production.

In Disznókő’s customary style, this lip-smacking, bone-dry white is all about purity and zesty freshness, capturing the vibrant juiciness and minerality so innate to this unique variety. Matured on lees in tank, it shimmers on the tongue with juicy pear, almond blossom and salty lemon goodness. Along with its impressive tension and focused, chalky drive, there’s a spicy Chablis thing going on, especially on the briny, salt-licked close. Serve as an apéritif, with seafood (it’s superb with a plate of oysters), or with poultry/game-bird dishes.

It is only in the last twenty years or so—instigated by outside investment—that Tokaj has begun to recapture the quality, if not the former fame, of its once legendary sweet wines. Disznókő—the name of the estate and the vineyard, which lies just south of the wonderfully named town of Mád—has been one of the preeminent growers leading this rebirth. In this case, we have an “AXA-funded resurrection” with the dynamic combination of MD Christian Seeley (who has also overseen the revivals of Château Suduiraut and Quinta do Noval) and an inspirational winemaker in László Mészáros driving the renaissance. We have these men and their excellent team to thank for bringing back this once revered vineyard and its wines from the brink. They have a purpose-built, state-of-the-art cellar to work with, perfectly situated on the edge of the vineyard. And what a glorious vineyard it is. The arc and gradient of this dramatic site give Mészáros & Co. a full range of favourable exposures to allow the necessary ripening and hang time of grapes this far north.

Just as important are their warrens of underground springs that result in levels of humidity that encourage the onset of Botrytis cinerea, the noble rot essential to concentrating the Aszú berries’ juice to astonishing, nectar-like levels. Unusually for the region, all Disznókő’s wines are 100% estate grown and produced. The Aszú wines crafted here are not only prime examples of one of the world’s great sweet wine styles, but they are also some of its most individual and profound examples of the genre. In a nutshell, the style of wine that this terroir gifts is one of great aromatic purity, freshness and cloud-like delicacy with racy, citric acidities balancing the wine’s inherent sweetness. This contrasts strongly with many of the region’s more unctuous, viscous, honeyed styles. If you think purity, clarity, and raciness suggest the kind of wines we typically search for across Europe—you’d be exactly right. It was these very characteristics that drew us to Disznókő in the first place.