2020 Grace Wine Koshu Toriibira Vineyard, Japan

Fermentation in old French oak barrels, maturation in stainless steel tank. All the other whites, aside the Chardonnay, don’t get to see any oak.

White peach, stony, fennel, a little spice, coconut milk. Fine, tight, fine chalk dust/crushed rock texture, subdued and closed in to an extent, cinnamon and stonefruit, with a long cool finish. Needs a bit of air or another year in bottle. Excellent. Drink 2023-2028.

94+ points Gary Walsh for The Wine Front

Grace Wine is one of Japan's most revered wineries and a leading ambassador for the country's indigenous Koshu grape. Founded in Yamanashi Prefecture in 1923, the family owned estate has spent more than a century refining its craft and demonstrating the remarkable potential of Japanese wine. Under the guidance of fourth generation winemaker Ayana Misawa, Grace Wine has earned international acclaim for producing elegant, terroir driven wines that showcase the unique character of Japan's vineyards.

The Toriibira Vineyard is one of the most historic and prized sites in Katsunuma, often regarded as a grand cru of the Koshu world. Planted on well drained alluvial soils at the foot of the mountains surrounding Yamanashi, the vineyard benefits from abundant sunshine and significant diurnal temperature variation. The 2020 vintage produced fruit of exceptional purity and concentration, allowing Koshu's delicate aromatics and mineral character to shine with uncommon depth.

Pale straw with silver green highlights, the bouquet is subtle yet captivating, revealing aromas of yuzu, white peach and pear alongside notes of jasmine, green tea and wet stone. The palate is beautifully refined, offering flavours of citrus, quince and Asian pear wrapped around a delicate saline thread. Fine acidity provides freshness and precision, while the texture is silky and layered. The finish is long, elegant and mineral driven, lingering with notes of citrus peel, white flowers and savoury complexity.

This is a magnificent partner for sashimi, sushi, grilled kingfish, steamed scallops, tempura vegetables or a delicate tofu and mushroom dish. Graceful and understated, it exemplifies the harmony and balance that have made Koshu one of the world's most distinctive white wine styles.