2020 Hartford Court Four Hearts Vineyard Chardonnay, California

The 2020 Chardonnay Four Hearts Vineyard comes mostly from 45-year-old Wente vines in the Laguna Ridge neighborhood of the Russian River Valley. It was barrel fermented and matured for 11 months in 35% new French oak. It has a beautiful perfume of jasmine, white peaches, ginger and roasted almonds, plus touches of lemon cream and baking spice in the undercurrent. The medium-bodied palate surprises with its combination of intense fruits and focused, tangy acidity. It has a satiny texture, streaks of flinty character and a very long, layered finish. 1,484 cases were produced.

I visited Hartford Court in the spring of 2022 to taste the lineup of 2019s with Don Hartford; his daughter Haily, who is president and co-owner; Jeff Stewart, winemaker and general manager; and winemaker Tiaan Lordan. Founded in 1994, Hartford Court has focused on single-vineyard cuvées—they currently produce over 40 SKUs, the vast majority of them from single sites. "Back in 1994, there were only a handful of wineries in California who were focusing on site-designated Pinot Noir," Don remembered. "I was on the lookout for single-vineyard properties from the start. That terroir idea—we dreamed it and now it's a reality. We planted most of the vineyards in our portfolio." Don recalled the time spent thinking about the land, breaking down and studying blocks in search of the most expressive sites with "that wow factor, that speechless quality." His voice breaks as he thinks back on his long career. "When we do these tastings, it confirms that we weren't crazy."

Hartford Court has maintained a consistent style over the years: Chardonnays undergo 100% malolactic conversion and are bottled without fining or filtration. Pinot Noirs are mostly destemmed. Single-vineyard cuvées are matured for around 15 months in barrel and an additional year in bottle before release. The ripe, fruit-focused style here paired exceptionally well with the 2019 vintage. The wines are particularly energetic, flavorful and approachable, with the balance to allow for graceful development in the cellar. "The 2019s gave us what 2018 did, with a little more verve and liveliness," Don said. "I think they will age well. The 2018s I see as 10- to 15-year wines and the 2019s are 15- to 20-year wines." Currently, an impressive 70% of production comes from estate fruit, which makes up the single-vineyard wines, while 30% of grapes are purchased for use in the larger appellation cuvées. Hartford Court also produces wines from the Sta. Rita Hills and Oregon, which are made at the winery in Sonoma. They began producing sparkling wines in 2014, including a blanc de blancs, blanc de noir and a non-vintage; the first of these will be disgorged in 2023.

94 points Erin Brooks robertparker.com

Hartford Court Four Hearts Vineyard Chardonnay from California is a beautifully textured and refined wine crafted by winemaker Jeff Stewart, who is celebrated for his commitment to small-lot, single-vineyard wines. Sourced from the Four Hearts Vineyard in the cool Russian River Valley, this Chardonnay benefits from the region’s cool fog and sandy loam soils, which allow the grapes to ripen slowly, developing concentrated flavors while retaining bright acidity.

On the nose, Four Hearts Vineyard Chardonnay offers aromas of ripe pear, green apple, and Meyer lemon, intertwined with subtle notes of toasted almond, vanilla, and a touch of butterscotch from oak aging. The palate is full and creamy, with flavors of citrus, baked apple, and a hint of tropical fruit. A balanced acidity keeps the wine fresh and vibrant, leading to a long, smooth finish with a touch of minerality and elegant spice.

This Chardonnay pairs wonderfully with dishes like roasted chicken, seafood in creamy sauces, grilled vegetables, and soft cheeses. Its complexity and balance also make it an excellent candidate for cellaring, promising further depth with time.