2020 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany

A restrained mix of licorice and graphite, bright red cherries and toasted notes. Firm tannins on the medium- to full-bodied palate with refreshing acidity. Chewy style overall. Try in 2025, but best after 2026.

94 points James Suckling

The nose is both perfumed and spicy, with aromas of cloves, coffee, vanilla bean and black cherry. Flavors of tart blackberry, bergamot and flaky salt define the palate, before a touch of mocha creeps onto the finish. Tannins are polished, but grippy.

96 points Wine Enthusiast

Il Poggione is one of the grand old estates of Montalcino, founded by the Franceschi family in the late nineteenth century and still family owned today. Its vineyards surround Tenuta Il Poggione near Sant’Angelo in Colle in the southern part of the appellation. Long serving winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci, now joined by his son Alessandro, has been central to the estate’s reputation for classical, traditionally matured Brunello with the structure to age.

Brunello is 100% Sangiovese, grown here across vineyards at varying elevations that help balance the warmer southern position of the estate. The 2020 season produced a more generous, immediately expressive style than the tightly structured 2019, but there is still plenty beneath the fruit. Il Poggione’s traditional maturation in large oak gives the wine time to settle without smothering Sangiovese’s perfume and savoury character.

Deep ruby garnet with Morello cherry, ripe raspberry and red plum followed by violet and dried flowers. Blood orange, fennel and anise bring lift, while tobacco, black tea, leather and warm earth begin to appear underneath. The palate is generous yet composed, with ripe red fruit carried by fresh acidity and firm, finely textured tannins. Cherry, orange peel and savoury spice gradually move towards tobacco and earthy notes on the long, dry finish.

Wild mushroom pappardelle with sage and Parmigiano has exactly the earthy richness this wants. Duck with lentils, slow braised lamb, eggplant baked with tomato and pecorino or grilled radicchio with hazelnuts can take the bottle in different directions. If opening it young, a good decant and a large glass will help enormously.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2045+.