2019 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Paganelli, Tuscany

Brooding and balsamic, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a dark stallion of a wine with a bouquet to meditate to, wafting up exotic spices, flint, incense, dried roses, black cherries and hints of ashen stone. It's racy yet complex and sensual, with silken textures and masses of mineral-inflected red berry fruits, all guided by a core of zesty acidity as a tinge of sour citrus adds tension throughout. Pleasantly chewy yet still mouthwatering, the 2019 leaves a web of fine tannins, along with a hint of orange zest and cloves to linger on and on and on. This is drop-dead gorgeous.

98 points Eric Guido, Vinous

Il Poggione is one of Montalcino’s historic estates, founded by the Franceschi family in the late nineteenth century and still family owned today. The property lies around Sant’Angelo in Colle in the warmer southern sector of Montalcino, with vineyards spread across different elevations. Long serving winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci, now working alongside his son Alessandro, has helped establish the estate as a reference point for traditionally minded Brunello. Vigna Paganelli sits at the very top of the tree.

Paganelli is the estate’s oldest vineyard, planted in 1964 and reserved for Brunello Riserva in exceptional vintages. These old Sangiovese vines naturally produce small crops with remarkable concentration, while the site’s elevation helps retain freshness. And 2019 is a beauty of a vintage for Montalcino, combining ripe, healthy fruit with excellent acidity and beautifully formed tannins. This is serious cellar material, with old vine depth but none of the lumbering weight that can obscure great Sangiovese.

Deep ruby garnet, with Morello cherry, wild raspberry and redcurrant opening into violet, dried flowers and blood orange. Anise, fennel and sage follow, joined by tobacco, leather and warm earth as the wine opens. The palate is powerful but beautifully proportioned, with concentrated red fruit, vibrant acidity and firm, finely grained tannins. Cherry, orange peel, tea leaf and savoury spice gather through an exceptionally long, mineral tinged finish.

Porcini pappardelle with Parmigiano has enough earthy richness to meet the wine without drowning its perfume. Slow roasted lamb with rosemary, wild mushroom polenta, duck with lentils or aged Pecorino Toscano would all make very persuasive company. For now, a long decant is sensible if curiosity wins, although patience will reveal considerably more.

Cellaring: Drink from 2028 to 2050+.