2022 Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany

Spiced and earthy with ripe red and dark fruit and hints of walnuts and cocoa. Medium- to full-bodied and dry with firm tannins. Polished, velvety aftertaste. Drink or hold.

92 points James Suckling

Il Poggione is one of Montalcino’s great historic estates, founded by the Franceschi family in the late nineteenth century and still family owned today. The property lies south of the town around Sant’Angelo in Colle, with vineyards spread across varying elevations. Long serving winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci, now working alongside his son Alessandro, has helped make Il Poggione a reference point for traditionally styled Sangiovese.

Rosso di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese, known locally as Sangiovese Grosso, and gives a younger, more immediately accessible look at the territory than Brunello. The estate’s warm southern position provides ripe fruit, while elevation and the surrounding Mediterranean influence help retain freshness. The 2022 has plenty of generosity from the warm vintage, but its lively acidity and savoury tannins keep everything unmistakably Tuscan.

Bright ruby red with Morello cherry, raspberry and ripe red plum at the front, followed by violet and blood orange. Fennel seed, sage and black tea add savoury detail, with tobacco and warm earth beginning to emerge. The palate is juicy and medium bodied, with ripe cherry carried by fresh acidity and fine, slightly dusty tannins. Orange peel, anise and earthy spice linger through the dry, appetising finish.

Pici with a slow cooked tomato, porcini and pecorino sauce has everything this Sangiovese wants around it. Eggplant parmigiana, grilled pork with sage, white beans with tomato and rosemary or a mushroom and taleggio pizza would be equally comfortable company. This is proper trattoria wine: generous bowl of pasta, good bread and very little need for ceremony.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033.