2020 McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Brook Chardonnay, Margaret River

Fruit from the Calgardup Brook vineyard (planted 1997) on coastal limestone loam. All single-vineyard chardonnays are made in the same way here, highlighting the differences in terroir: Hand picked, whole-bunch pressed, full solids, wild ferment in barrel (25% new) and 4 months' maturation, partial mlf, fortnightly bâtonnage. Where the Burnside is granitic, mineral and fine, this is pithy, saline and expansive, with layers of cheesecloth and lanolin amongst the ripe stone fruit. More volume and density of flavour than the Burnside (neither here nor there qualitatively, simply an observation), this is sensational. Utterly.

97 points Erin Larkin winecompanion.com.au

Lying just inland from the coast. Its sandy, schisty soils are well weathered. These Chardonnay vines run east-west with a slightly sloping northern aspect.The nose opens with notes of sea spray, crushed shells, frangipani and delicate spiced pears. Wild fermentation with full solids provides flinty complexity and extended time on lees adds intrigue and excellent length to the palate. A distinctive saline acidity and attractive chalk-like structure complement the mineral nature of this unique Southern Margaret River vineyard near right by the Indian Ocean.