2020 Olivier Leflaive Les Sétilles Bourgogne Blanc, Burgundy

This has attractive notes of apricots, toasted hazelnuts and grilled pears. Tasty salted caramel undertones. Fleshy and nicely textured with a full body and focused finish. Drink now.

91 points James Suckling

A gateway into white Burgundy that overdelivers, Les Sétilles draws on fruit from across the Côte de Beaune, including parcels near Meursault and Puligny Montrachet, giving it a pedigree well above its appellation. Olivier Leflaive, co founder of Domaine Leflaive and one of Burgundy’s most respected figures, established his own négociant house in 1984 with a focus on sourcing top quality fruit and vinifying with precision and consistency.

The result is a Bourgogne Blanc that carries a real sense of place. The limestone rich soils of the Côte de Beaune bring that classic mineral line, while careful élevage, often in a mix of stainless steel and oak, adds texture without overwhelming the fruit.

Pale gold in the glass, the aromatics are refined and inviting. Citrus, lemon and grapefruit, sit alongside white peach and pear, with subtle notes of hazelnut, butter and a gentle toastiness from oak. There is a freshness that keeps everything lifted.

The palate strikes a beautiful balance between vibrancy and texture. Citrus and orchard fruits glide across a lightly creamy frame, supported by a line of acidity that keeps the wine focused and energetic. A faint nutty, savoury note lingers through the finish, along with that signature Burgundian mineral edge.

This is a natural partner for classic dishes. Roast chicken, grilled fish with beurre blanc, or a simple risotto with herbs all work beautifully. It also pairs effortlessly with shellfish, especially scallops or prawns, where its balance of richness and freshness comes into play.

Drinking beautifully now, though it will hold for five to seven years, gaining a little more nutty complexity with time.

There is an easy elegance here, a wine that captures the spirit of white Burgundy without the Grand Cru price tag, making it a smart choice for both everyday enjoyment and more considered meals.