2020 Pascal Agrapart EXP Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru, Champagne

The NV Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Exp. 20 is breathtaking. White flowers, mint, chalk, lemon oil and mint are all beautifully sculpted in this intensely saline, statuesque Champagne. This is so gorgeous and expressive. Some early vintages of this bottling were a bit unfocused, especially in the aromatics. That is far from the case today. The Exp. 20 is essentially the Avizoise wine of that vintage, but bottled with fresh grape juice from the 2021 harvest in place of the sugar and yeast that are typically added for the prise de mousse (the secondary fermentation that takes place in bottle). This release is magical. Bottled with no dosage.

98 points Antoni Galloni, Vinous

(Formerly known as Expérience). The price here reflects the demand for a cuvée that is utterly unique in the Champagne world and the rarity (there is next to none to go around). Finally, we should not forget that this is a wine style that is extremely difficult to make.

First, some background for those new to this wine. In 2002, Agrapart sought and (remarkably) received permission from the local authorities to begin experimenting with a small quantity of wine that he wanted to produce without adding any sugar: no chaptalisation and no additions for the secondary fermentation’s liqueur de tirage (the tricky part), nor the final dosage (liqueur d’expédition). Not using sugar and yeast for the liqueur de tirage (to prompt the second fermentation in the bottle) is actually against the AOC laws, which is why Agrapart needed permission. So how does Agrapart achieve the bottle fermentation? Instead of sugar, he uses must (grape juice) from the same vineyards that produce the wine, thus enabling him to produce a Champagne that is 100% the product of estate-grown grapes. It is also a lower-alcohol wine because the absence of sugar additions means the alcohol does not jump 1.5 degrees, as typically occurs with standard secondary fermentation. So, this wine rests at around 11.8% alcohol compared with 12.5% for the rest of the range. It’s also a wine that can age well; we recently tasted the first vintage, 2007, from magnum at the estate. It was in wonderful shape!

Pascal Agrapart has never been content to make Champagne by following a familiar recipe. From his family's estate in Avize, he has spent decades exploring the relationship between Chardonnay, chalk and the extraordinary vineyards of the Côte des Blancs. Working alongside his son Ambroise, Pascal has established Agrapart among the most respected grower producers in Champagne, with wines prized for their individuality, texture and remarkable ability to age. EXP is a particularly intriguing addition to the collection, reflecting the family's willingness to experiment while remaining firmly committed to vineyard expression.

Drawn from Grand Cru Chardonnay vineyards in the Côte des Blancs, the 2020 EXP reflects a warm, generous growing season that produced ripe fruit with impressive concentration. Agrapart's careful approach to fermentation and maturation is designed to preserve the character of the grapes while developing complexity and texture. The Brut designation allows a little more softness than the estate's Extra Brut bottlings, although the emphasis remains on freshness, balance and the distinctive chalky personality of great Côte des Blancs Chardonnay. There is a lovely combination of richness and restraint, making this a Champagne with considerable gastronomic appeal.

Pale gold with a fine, persistent bead. Ripe lemon, golden apple and white peach mingle with acacia blossom, toasted brioche and fresh hazelnut. Subtle notes of preserved citrus, chalk and delicate pastry spice emerge with air. The palate is beautifully textured, with concentrated orchard fruit and citrus supported by a fine, creamy mousse. There is a generous, almost silky quality through the middle, balanced by lively acidity and a firm mineral thread. Toasted almond, lemon peel and a gentle saline character linger through a long, beautifully composed finish. A sophisticated Blanc de Blancs that combines the generosity of the vintage with Agrapart's characteristic freshness and finesse.

Scallops with lemon butter, grilled King George whiting or lobster with a delicate beurre blanc would all be excellent companions. It would also be delicious with crab ravioli, a leek and Comté tart or wild mushroom gougères. 

Cellaring: Drink now to 2038. The concentration and balance of the 2020 vintage suggest excellent potential for further development, with additional toasted and savoury complexity emerging over time.