Egly-Ouriet Les Crayeres Blanc De Noirs Vieilles-Vignes Grand Cru Disg July 24, Champagne

The wine ascends from the glass with a bouquet of remarkable complexity—aromas of acacia, ripe pear, orange zest, toasted nuts and patisserie elements unfurl. Full-bodied, concentrated and layered, with ample chalky structuring extract and mouthwatering acidity, it concludes with a long, saline finish. While I often vacillate between Les Crayères and the Millésime as to which I favor, this year, Les Crayères stands as the most captivating wine in the cellar. It offers immense youthful appeal yet promises to evolve beautifully with age. Readers would be wise not to hesitate—it fully lives up to its reputation, and I’d gladly secure bottles for my own cellar.

98 points Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate

There are grower Champagnes, and then there is Egly-Ouriet. Based in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay, Francis Egly has built an extraordinary reputation for wines of depth, character and remarkable individuality. The family estate has been cultivating vines for generations, but it is Francis's uncompromising approach to vineyard work, low yields and extended ageing that has placed Egly-Ouriet among Champagne's most coveted producers. Les Crayères Vieilles Vignes is one of the domaine's greatest achievements, a rare Blanc de Noirs from exceptionally old Pinot Noir vines that regularly challenges the finest prestige cuvées in the region.

The Les Crayères vineyard lies in Ambonnay, where old Pinot Noir vines, planted in 1946, are rooted in the village's celebrated chalk soils. These ancient vines produce naturally concentrated fruit with remarkable depth and mineral definition. Fermentation and maturation in oak barrels contribute texture without overwhelming the vineyard's distinctive character, while extended ageing on lees develops extraordinary complexity. Disgorged in July 2024, this release has the richness and structure associated with great Ambonnay Pinot Noir, balanced by the chalky freshness that makes Les Crayères so compelling. Production is tiny, and bottles are eagerly sought by collectors around the world.

Deep golden straw with a fine, persistent bead. Ripe red apple, golden pear and preserved citrus mingle with toasted brioche, roasted hazelnut and a little dried apricot. Notes of chalk, warm pastry, subtle spice and a faint suggestion of red berries emerge as the wine opens. The palate is remarkably concentrated, with ripe orchard fruit, citrus oil and a rich, creamy mousse supported by firm mineral structure. There is tremendous depth beneath the fruit, with toasted nuts, savoury spice and a distinctive chalky tension carrying through an exceptionally long finish. Powerful yet beautifully controlled, this is Champagne with the complexity and presence of a great white Burgundy.

Butter poached lobster, scallops with browned butter or roast turbot with a delicate beurre blanc would be magnificent companions. It would also be wonderful with wild mushroom risotto, aged Comté or a carefully prepared roast chicken with morels. Serve in a generous white wine glass rather than a narrow flute, and allow it to warm slightly as you drink. A Champagne of this calibre deserves time, attention and preferably someone who appreciates just how special the bottle is.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2040+. The concentration, old vine character and extended lees ageing provide outstanding potential for further development, with additional toasted, nutty and savoury complexity emerging over the next decade or two.