2019 Laherte Frères Les Beaudiers Rosé de Saignée, Epernay, Champagne

Aurélien Laherte has a particular affection for Champagne's less celebrated vineyards and grape varieties, and few wines demonstrate that passion more convincingly than Les Beaudiers. His family has been growing grapes around Chavot since 1889, but Aurélien's thoughtful approach to individual vineyard parcels has established Laherte Frères among the most exciting grower estates in Champagne. Les Beaudiers is one of the domaine's most distinctive and sought after bottlings, a rare, single vineyard rosé made entirely from Pinot Meunier. Far removed from the delicate, easygoing style often associated with rosé Champagne, this is a serious, characterful wine with remarkable depth and individuality.

The fruit comes from old Pinot Meunier vines in the Les Beaudiers vineyard at Chavot, south of Épernay, where mature plantings produce naturally concentrated berries with considerable aromatic intensity. The 2019 vintage enjoyed a warm growing season, resulting in ripe fruit with excellent flavour concentration. Made using the traditional saignée method, the wine develops its vivid colour and fine tannic structure through extended contact between the juice and grape skins. Fermentation and maturation in oak barrels contribute further texture and complexity, while a restrained dosage preserves the freshness and savoury character of the fruit. The result is a Champagne that sits somewhere between a beautifully structured rosé and a fine, lightly sparkling red Burgundy.

A striking deep salmon pink with ruby highlights and a delicate, persistent bead. Wild strawberry, ripe raspberry and red cherry mingle with blood orange, rose petal and a suggestion of pomegranate. Notes of dried cranberry, gentle spice, toasted almond and a little earthy complexity emerge as the wine opens. The palate is wonderfully expressive, with concentrated red berries and citrus supported by a fine mousse and refreshing acidity. There is an attractive vinosity through the middle, with delicate tannins providing structure and a subtle savoury character balancing the ripe fruit. The finish is long, dry and beautifully detailed, leaving lingering cherry, orange peel and a touch of spice. A fascinating Champagne that combines the charm of ripe Pinot Meunier with the seriousness and complexity of a great vineyard wine.

Seared tuna with sesame and ginger, grilled prawns with harissa or salmon with roasted tomato and fennel would all be excellent companions. It would also be wonderful with beetroot risotto, wild mushroom tartlets or duck breast with a cherry reduction. Les Beaudiers has enough character to accompany a substantial meal, making it a particularly rewarding choice when the occasion calls for something a little different from conventional Champagne.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2036+. The concentration of the 2019 vintage, old vine fruit and fine tannic structure suggest excellent potential for further development, with additional savoury, earthy and toasted complexity emerging over time.