Laherte Freres Ultradition Extra-Brut Base 2023, Champagne

Base 2023

A perfumed wine with violets, rosewater, lemon peel, chalk, quince and green apples on the nose. Very elegant overall. Intense palate with a medium to full body, crisp acidity and a creamy mousse. Tight, with an extremely focused finish of red fruit.

95 points Aldo Fiordelli for James Suckling

Aurélien Laherte has a wonderful knack for making Champagne that feels both deeply traditional and refreshingly individual. His family has cultivated vines around Chavot since 1889, and under his direction Laherte Frères has become one of the region's most admired grower estates. While some of the domaine's tiny production cuvées attract considerable attention from collectors, Ultradition remains one of its most appealing wines. It captures the character of the family's vineyards in a style that is beautifully balanced, full of flavour and remarkably good drinking.

The blend is led by Pinot Meunier, supported by Chardonnay and a smaller proportion of Pinot Noir, sourced from vineyards around Chavot and the Coteaux Sud d'Épernay. Meunier contributes its characteristic orchard fruit and supple texture, while Chardonnay provides freshness and Pinot Noir adds structure. The 2023 base vintage forms the heart of this release, complemented by reserve wines that contribute additional complexity. Fermentation and maturation in a combination of oak barrels and other vessels allow the different varieties to retain their individuality, while the Extra Brut dosage keeps the finish lively and dry. It is a particularly attractive expression of Champagne's three principal grapes, with a lovely balance between fruit, texture and savoury detail.

Bright straw gold with a fine, lively bead. Ripe yellow apple, fresh pear and white peach mingle with lemon zest, toasted brioche and a little almond. Hints of quince, gentle spice and dried flowers add interest as the Champagne opens. The palate is wonderfully inviting, with juicy orchard fruit and citrus supported by a creamy mousse and refreshing acidity. Meunier contributes an appealing roundness through the middle, while subtle pastry notes and a delicate mineral character keep everything beautifully composed. The finish is crisp and satisfying, leaving lingering apple, lemon peel and a faint savoury note. A Champagne with plenty of personality, combining the charm of ripe fruit with the freshness and finesse that make Laherte Frères so enjoyable.

Grilled prawns with garlic and lemon, crab cakes with a light herb mayonnaise or scallops with cauliflower purée would all be excellent companions. It would also be delicious with mushroom and Gruyère tartlets, crispy zucchini fritters or a simple roast chicken with lemon and thyme. There is enough substance here to accompany a meal, although it would be equally appealing shared over a relaxed afternoon with good friends and a plate of freshly prepared seafood.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032. Particularly enjoyable for its youthful fruit and energy, with a few years in the cellar likely to develop additional toasted and savoury complexity.