Laherte Freres Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Brut Base 2023, Champagne

Base 2023

Aurélien Laherte has become one of Champagne's most respected independent growers, bringing fresh energy to a family estate established in Chavot in 1889. His approach combines a deep respect for traditional methods with an adventurous spirit, producing Champagnes that are full of character without sacrificing elegance. The Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs is a particularly appealing example of his work, celebrating the purity of Chardonnay with a style that is bright, beautifully textured and refreshingly dry. It has the individuality that makes grower Champagne so exciting, yet remains wonderfully approachable.

Made entirely from Chardonnay grown in vineyards around Chavot and the Coteaux Sud d'Épernay, this Champagne reflects the limestone influenced soils and varied exposures of the region. Laherte favours careful vineyard management, indigenous yeast fermentation and maturation in oak barrels, creating wines with natural texture and complexity. The Brut Nature designation means no sugar is added at disgorgement, allowing the fruit's freshness and subtle mineral character to remain at the forefront. Despite its bone dry style, there is nothing austere about it. The balance of ripe Chardonnay, gentle oak influence and time on lees creates a lovely sense of harmony.

Pale straw gold with a delicate, persistent bead. Fresh lemon, green apple and white peach mingle with citrus blossom, toasted almond and a hint of warm brioche. Subtle notes of chalk, grapefruit pith and sea spray add an attractive savoury edge. The palate is lively and beautifully textured, with crisp citrus and orchard fruit carried by a fine, creamy mousse. There is a gentle richness through the middle, balanced by refreshing acidity and a distinctly saline character. The finish is long, dry and wonderfully clean, leaving lingering lemon zest, almond and a delicate mineral impression. A Champagne of lovely purity and quiet complexity, equally suited to a celebratory glass or a thoughtfully prepared meal.

Fresh oysters, scallop crudo with lemon or grilled King George whiting would all be excellent companions. It would also be delicious with tempura prawns, zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta or a delicate goat's cheese tart. Its brisk acidity and dry finish make it particularly appealing alongside seafood, where the wine's citrus and mineral character complement rather than overwhelm delicate flavours.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032. Beautifully expressive in its youth, although several years in the cellar should develop additional toasted almond, pastry and savoury complexity.