Laherte Freres Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Base 2024, Champagne

The Laherte family has been cultivating vineyards around Chavot since 1889, but it is Aurélien Laherte who has brought the estate to international prominence as one of Champagne's most exciting independent growers. His wines have a wonderful sense of individuality, shaped by careful vineyard work, traditional techniques and a belief that great Champagne begins with the quality of the fruit rather than the winemaker's intervention. The Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs is a beautifully direct expression of that philosophy, a Chardonnay Champagne with freshness, texture and a distinctly mineral personality.

Sourced from Chardonnay vineyards in the Côteaux Sud d'Épernay, the wine reflects the limestone and chalk influences that give this part of Champagne its characteristic vitality. Laherte favours thoughtful, low intervention winemaking, with fermentation and maturation in oak contributing gentle complexity and a rounded texture. Bottled without added dosage, the Brut Nature style leaves the fruit, acidity and mineral character completely exposed. There is no sweetness to soften the edges, yet the wine retains an appealing generosity, demonstrating how beautifully ripe Chardonnay and careful ageing can balance a bone dry finish.

Pale straw gold with a delicate, persistent bead. Fresh lemon, green apple and white peach mingle with acacia blossom, almond skin and a suggestion of toasted bread. Subtle notes of crushed chalk, oyster shell and citrus pith emerge as the wine opens. The palate is crisp and beautifully textured, with vibrant lemon and orchard fruit supported by a fine, creamy mousse. There is a gentle richness through the middle, balanced by lively acidity and a refreshing saline character. The finish is long, dry and wonderfully clean, leaving lingering citrus zest, almond and mineral detail. A Champagne of lovely purity, with enough texture and complexity to make it much more than a simple aperitif.

Fresh oysters, scallop crudo with lemon or grilled King George whiting would be natural companions. It would also be excellent with prawn sashimi, zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta or a delicate goat's cheese tart. Cellaring: Drink now to 2032. Particularly appealing for its youthful freshness and mineral energy, although a few years in the cellar should develop additional toasted and savoury notes.