Laherte Freres Nature de Craie 1er Cru Base 21 Disg. May 2023, Champagne

Laherte’s NV (2021) Brut Blanc de Blancs Nature de Craie emerges from parcels planted in 1960, 1965 and 1987 in Vertus and Voipreux, both in the southern reaches of the Côte des Blancs. Old vines and no dosage yield a rich, vinous Champagne of real textural depth and intensity, with the mousse very much in the background. This really needs a lot of air to blossom. Even so, it remains a pretty powerful Blanc de Blancs. It’s a fine effort in a very challenging year. Now, with some time post-disgorgement, this is ready to go.

91 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Few growers have done more to explore Champagne's remarkable diversity than the Laherte family. Based in Chavot, just south of Épernay, Laherte Frères traces its history to 1889 and today is guided by the talented Aurélien Laherte. His thoughtful approach to viticulture, individual vineyard parcels and traditional winemaking has established the estate as one of the region's most interesting independent producers. Nature de Craie is a particularly compelling expression of the family's philosophy, placing the distinctive chalk soils of the Côte des Blancs firmly in the spotlight.

Produced entirely from Chardonnay grown in Premier Cru vineyards around Vertus, Nature de Craie is a Blanc de Blancs Champagne shaped by its limestone rich origins. The vineyards are cultivated with great attention to soil health and vine balance, while fermentation and maturation in oak contribute subtle texture and complexity. Bottled without dosage, the wine is deliberately dry, allowing the natural acidity, fruit purity and chalky mineral character to speak clearly. Rather than relying on richness or sweetness, it draws its appeal from fine detail, tension and a beautifully understated sense of place.

Pale straw gold with a delicate, persistent bead. Fresh lemon, green apple and white grapefruit mingle with white blossom, almond skin and a suggestion of freshly baked bread. Crushed chalk, oyster shell and a faint herbal note add further interest. The palate is lively and beautifully focused, with crisp citrus and orchard fruit supported by a fine, gently creamy mousse. There is an attractive chalky texture through the middle, while vibrant acidity and a distinctly saline character keep everything fresh and energetic. The finish is long, dry and mouthwatering, leaving lingering lemon zest, subtle almond and mineral detail. A beautifully expressive Champagne for those who appreciate purity over opulence.

Freshly shucked oysters, scallop crudo with citrus or grilled prawns with lemon and parsley would make wonderful companions. Its brisk acidity would also work beautifully with tempura vegetables, goat's cheese tartlets or delicate sashimi. 

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033. Delicious for its youthful energy and mineral freshness, although a few additional years in the cellar should develop attractive toasted and savoury complexity.