Laherte Freres Les 7 Solera Extra Brut 05-21 Disg. Nov 2024, Champagne

The NV Extra Brut Les 7 (2021 base), a co-fermented blend of the seven varieties permitted in Champagne, is superb. Aromatically intense and light on its feet, Les 7 has so much to offer. Lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers and tangerine oil grace the palate. This release is based on 2021, with 50% reserve wines from a solera dating back to 2005. The blend of varieties and vintages makes for a compelling Champagne. This is elevated juice. Dosage is 2.5 grams per liter.

93 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Aurélien Laherte has become one of Champagne's most imaginative growers, combining a deep respect for his family's vineyards with a willingness to explore the region's forgotten traditions. The Laherte family has been making wine in Chavot since 1889, and under Aurélien's direction the estate has earned an international following for Champagnes of remarkable individuality. Les 7 is among his most fascinating creations, reviving all seven historically permitted Champagne grape varieties in a single wine. Produced in tiny quantities, it is a wonderfully distinctive expression of Champagne's heritage and a favourite among adventurous collectors.

The blend comprises Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Petit Meslier and Arbane, grown together in a small vineyard in Chavot. These varieties contribute different elements of aroma, texture and acidity, creating a Champagne with considerably more complexity than its modest production might suggest. Fermentation and maturation take place in oak barrels, while a perpetual reserve system, established in 2005, incorporates wines from successive harvests. This solera inspired approach contributes depth and maturity without sacrificing freshness. Finished with a low dosage as an Extra Brut, Les 7 is a beautifully layered Champagne with an intriguing combination of youthful energy and developed savoury character.

Golden straw with a fine, persistent bead. Baked apple, ripe pear and preserved lemon mingle with toasted hazelnut, fresh brioche and dried white flowers. Notes of quince, ginger, subtle honey and gentle spice emerge as the wine opens, accompanied by a faint earthy, mineral character. The palate is wonderfully textured, with generous orchard fruit and citrus supported by a fine, creamy mousse. There is a fascinating interplay between richness and freshness, with toasted almond, savoury spice and a subtle saline edge adding complexity. The finish is long, dry and beautifully detailed, leaving lingering citrus peel, roasted nuts and delicate herbal notes. An intellectually fascinating Champagne, but more importantly, an absolutely delicious one.

Grilled scallops with browned butter, lobster ravioli or roast prawns with garlic and lemon would be excellent companions. It would also be superb with wild mushroom risotto, a Comté soufflé or roasted cauliflower with hazelnut butter. Les 7 is a Champagne that changes beautifully as it warms, revealing new aromas and textures with every sip.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035+. The combination of perpetual reserve wines, concentrated fruit and vibrant acidity provides excellent ageing potential, with further toasted, nutty and savoury complexity developing over time.