Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignée 1er Cru Magnum 1.5L Base 18. Disg. Apr 2021, Champagne

The NV Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée (2018 base) will soon be disgorged, and readers will be able to identify it by its deeper, unusually saturated hue without looking at the small print. Bursting with aromas of pear, plums, orange rind and sweet berries, it's medium to full-bodied, round and enveloping, with a ripe core of fruit and the most phenolic presence I've tasted in this perennially superb cuvée. That makes this 2018 base a more vinous, gastronomic wine, which will offer interesting possibilities at the table.

94 points William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

2018 base (100%), disgorged April 2021. For this cuvée, the grapes—a co-planted blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Gris—were allowed to macerate for several days before the juice was drawn off. This soak provided the colour and much of the body and flavour for the wine. This saignée technique is now rare in Champagne, primarily as it is a demanding method of vinification that requires grapes with an excellent degree of maturity. Hence most rosé in Champagne is made by the addition of a little red wine. Vive la difference!

Cut from the same cloth as previous releases, the 2018 vintage bottling was drawn entirely from what are thought to be the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Vertus (45 years old), and one of its very last 100% Pinot vineyards. As with all Larmandier’s wines it was naturally fermented. Part of this cuvée was raised in a Nomblot concrete egg and part in stainless steel, and more recently Larmandier has been trialling amphora.

There is nothing ordinary about rosé Champagne from Larmandier-Bernier. Pierre and Sophie Larmandier have spent decades establishing their family estate in Vertus as one of the Côte des Blancs' most respected grower producers, with a particular devotion to biodynamic farming and wines that reflect their origins. While the domaine is best known for its beautifully expressive Chardonnay, Rosé de Saignée reveals another side of its personality. Made from Pinot Noir rather than the more familiar Chardonnay of the estate's Blanc de Blancs, it is a striking, characterful Champagne with the perfume and texture of a fine red Burgundy and the energy of great sparkling wine.

The Pinot Noir comes from old vines in Vertus, a village better known for Chardonnay but capable of producing beautifully fragrant, finely structured red fruit. Unlike rosé Champagnes made by blending red and white wines, Rosé de Saignée gains its colour and character through skin contact during fermentation. This traditional method extracts delicate tannins, deeper colour and a more pronounced red fruit personality. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts and careful maturation preserve the vineyard's individuality, while a restrained dosage keeps the finish fresh and dry. The result is a serious, food friendly rosé with far more character than its delicate bubbles might initially suggest.

A vivid salmon pink with copper and ruby highlights, accompanied by a fine, persistent mousse. Wild strawberry, raspberry and red cherry mingle with blood orange, rose petal and a little pomegranate. Hints of dried herbs, gentle spice and freshly baked pastry emerge as the Champagne opens. The palate is wonderfully expressive, with juicy red berries and citrus supported by lively acidity and a creamy bead. Fine, almost imperceptible tannins contribute structure, while subtle savoury notes and a refreshing mineral character keep the fruit beautifully balanced. The finish is long, dry and fragrant, leaving lingering raspberry, orange zest and a delicate earthy note. A captivating rosé Champagne that manages to be both playful and wonderfully sophisticated.

Tuna tataki with sesame, grilled prawns with harissa or salmon with a light tomato and fennel dressing would be excellent companions. It would also be delicious with roasted beetroot and whipped goat's cheese, wild mushroom tartlets or duck breast with a cherry glaze. This is a rosé to bring to the table rather than reserve for an aperitif, particularly when the menu has a little spice, richness or savoury complexity.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033. The Pinot Noir's natural structure and the wine's vibrant acidity should allow several years of development, with more savoury, earthy and toasted notes emerging over time.