Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs Base 2022, Champagne

The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude 1er Cru is bright and beautifully focused. The Latitude contains 40% perpetual reserve wine dating back to 2004. It is usually a bit more approachable on release, but this year's version clearly needs time to soften. Today, citrus, floral and mineral notes abound on the steely finish.

92 points Antonio Galloni, Vinous

While many Champagne houses seek consistency above all else, Pierre and Sophie Larmandier have built their reputation on wines that express the individuality of their vineyards. Working from their family estate in Vertus, they have become leading figures in grower Champagne, embracing biodynamic farming, indigenous yeasts and a patient approach to winemaking. Latitude is the more rounded, fruit driven companion to Longitude, capturing the warmer, more generous side of Chardonnay from the southern Côte des Blancs. It is a Champagne with plenty of personality, combining beautiful texture with the freshness and finesse that have made Larmandier-Bernier such a sought after name.

Latitude is made entirely from Chardonnay grown in vineyards around Vertus, predominantly from the area's relatively deep, clay influenced soils. These sites produce fruit with greater richness and breadth than the chalk dominated parcels used for Longitude. The 2022 base vintage was warm and sunny, producing beautifully ripe grapes with concentration and appealing aromatic intensity. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts and maturation in oak casks allow the fruit to develop naturally, while reserve wines from previous harvests contribute further complexity. Finished with a low Extra Brut dosage, Latitude retains its generous character without losing the freshness and mineral definition that make it unmistakably Champagne.

Pale golden straw with a fine, persistent bead. Ripe pear, golden apple and white peach mingle with lemon curd, acacia blossom and freshly baked brioche. Toasted almond, a little honeycomb and subtle spice add complexity as the wine opens. The palate is wonderfully supple, with juicy orchard fruit and citrus supported by a delicate, creamy mousse. There is an appealing richness through the middle, balanced by lively acidity and a gentle chalky character. Notes of almond pastry, preserved lemon and a faint saline edge carry through a long, satisfying finish. Beautifully composed and immediately inviting, Latitude is a Champagne that combines the charm of ripe Chardonnay with the elegance of careful winemaking.

Seared scallops with cauliflower purée, butter poached prawns or grilled lobster with lemon would all be excellent companions. It would also be delicious with wild mushroom risotto, a leek and Gruyère tart or roast cauliflower with hazelnut butter. There is enough richness here to accompany a substantial meal, although it would be equally enjoyable over a long lunch with good friends and a plate of freshly prepared seafood.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2034. The concentration of the 2022 base vintage and the wine's fine acidity suggest excellent potential for further development, with additional toasted, nutty and savoury complexity emerging over time.