Larmandier-Bernier Longitude Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 1er Cru Base 2021, Champagne

The Larmandier family has been cultivating vineyards in Champagne for generations, but it was Pierre and Sophie Larmandier who helped transform the estate into one of the Côte des Blancs' most admired grower producers. Based in Vertus, they have championed biodynamic farming, indigenous yeasts and a patient, thoughtful approach to winemaking. Their Champagnes have become favourites among serious collectors, yet there is nothing intimidating about Longitude. It is a beautifully expressive Blanc de Blancs that captures the freshness, elegance and unmistakable chalky character of Chardonnay grown in this celebrated corner of Champagne.

The name Longitude refers to the line of Chardonnay vineyards stretching north from Vertus through the Côte des Blancs. Fruit comes primarily from Vertus, with additional parcels in the Grand Cru villages of Oger, Avize and Cramant. The vines grow in chalk rich soils that contribute the wine's distinctive mineral character, while fermentation with indigenous yeasts and maturation in oak casks and other vessels develop texture and complexity. Reserve wines contribute further character, and a restrained Extra Brut dosage preserves freshness without leaving the wine austere. It is an excellent example of how subtle winemaking can allow the personality of a region to emerge.

Pale straw gold with a delicate, persistent bead. Lemon blossom, crisp green apple and white peach mingle with toasted almond, fresh brioche and a little grapefruit zest. Hints of crushed chalk, oyster shell and gentle spice add interest as the wine opens. The palate is lively and beautifully balanced, with bright citrus and orchard fruit supported by a fine, creamy mousse. There is an attractive softness through the middle, followed by refreshing acidity and a distinctly saline character. The finish is long and wonderfully clean, with lingering lemon peel, almond and a delicate mineral impression. A Champagne of finesse and quiet complexity that becomes increasingly engaging with every sip.

Freshly shucked oysters, grilled scallops with lemon butter or delicate crab ravioli would all make excellent companions. For something different, try zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta, a leek and Comté tart or tempura prawns with a light citrus dressing. Longitude is equally at home as an aperitif or alongside a leisurely seafood lunch, particularly when served cool enough to refresh without muting its lovely aromatic detail.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033. Its vibrant acidity and fine structure should reward several years of ageing, developing additional toasted almond, pastry and savoury notes.