2015 Larmandier-Bernier Vieille Vigne du Levant Grand Cru, Champagne

Few Champagne growers have championed the character of individual vineyards as passionately as Pierre and Sophie Larmandier. Based in Vertus, the Larmandier-Bernier family has been cultivating vines in the Côte des Blancs for generations, with Pierre and Sophie helping to establish the estate as one of the region's most respected independent producers. Their commitment to biodynamic farming, mature vines and patient winemaking has created a collection of Champagnes that are as expressive as they are ageworthy. Vieille Vigne du Levant is one of the domaine's most distinguished bottlings, a remarkable Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs that captures the richness and complexity of old vine Chardonnay from Cramant.

The wine comes from a small, east facing vineyard in the Grand Cru village of Cramant, where Chardonnay vines averaging more than 60 years of age are rooted deeply in the region's celebrated chalk soils. The eastern exposure catches the morning sun, allowing the fruit to ripen gradually while retaining freshness and mineral definition. Fermentation and maturation in oak casks contribute subtle texture and complexity, while extended ageing on lees develops the wine's remarkable depth. The warm, generous 2015 vintage produced concentrated fruit with considerable richness, beautifully balanced here by Cramant's distinctive chalky structure. Finished with a very low dosage, this is a Champagne of impressive concentration and wonderful restraint.

Deep straw gold with a fine, persistent bead. Ripe lemon, golden apple and white peach mingle with toasted brioche, roasted hazelnut and acacia honey. Notes of preserved citrus, dried flowers, chalk and a little warm pastry spice emerge with air. The palate is rich and beautifully textured, with concentrated orchard fruit and citrus supported by a delicate, creamy mousse. There is an almost Burgundian depth through the middle, balanced by lively acidity and a firm mineral character. Toasted almond, lemon curd and subtle savoury notes carry through an exceptionally long finish, leaving a lingering impression of chalk and gentle salinity. A magnificent mature Blanc de Blancs, combining the generosity of 2015 with the elegance and mineral character of great Cramant.

Butter poached lobster, roast turbot with beurre blanc or scallops with browned butter would be exceptional companions. It would also be wonderful with wild mushroom risotto, aged Comté or a delicate leek and Gruyère soufflé. This is a bottle that deserves time and a memorable meal.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2038+. Already developing beautiful complexity, with the concentration of the vintage and the structure of old vine Cramant Chardonnay providing excellent potential for further ageing.