2020 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala, Piedmont

Dense garnet in the glass. On the nose it’s restrained, with cinnamon, sweet violets, cherry pits and a balsamic whiff. The attack is full, with a dense palate that’s powerful yet velvety. The crisp, refined tannins are long. with deliciously integrated acidity. Great balance and concentration. Best after 2030.

97 points jamessuckling May 2024

Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala is a bold and brooding single vineyard wine from the legendary Bussia cru in Monforte d’Alba. Known for its depth and muscular tannin structure, Cicala is often the most powerful and age-demanding of the three Barolo crus bottled by Aldo Conterno, offering a darker and more intense profile that rewards patience in the cellar.

The Cicala vineyard is planted on compact calcareous clay soils that retain water and encourage slow, even ripening. The result is Nebbiolo with concentration and gravitas, perfectly suited to long macerations and extended maturation. At this site the vines dig deep, producing fruit with firm tannins, deep colour, and savoury complexity.

The Conterno family treats Cicala with the same traditional methods that define the estate. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel with a lengthy maceration to extract colour and tannin. Ageing occurs in large Slavonian oak casks for over two years followed by further time in bottle before release. The wine is unfined and unfiltered to preserve its authenticity and structure.

In the glass Cicala reveals black cherry dried rose leather tobacco and earthy undergrowth. The palate is firm and compact with dark fruit tar and spice layered over dense chalky tannins and a long mineral driven finish. This is serious Barolo with a wild edge made for the cellar and best enjoyed with truffle dishes game meats or simply on its own with time and air.