2020 San Polo Amphora Vignamasso Toscana IGT, Tuscany

A bright and savory sangiovese that offers notes of juicy red berries, dried orange peel and hints of white pepper. Medium-bodied, smooth and juicy, with vibrant fruit character and tense, slightly chewy tannins. Very fine and attractive. Six months on the skins and one year after without. From organically grown grapes. Made in amphorae. Drink or hold.

94 points James Suckling

San Polo sits on the south-eastern side of Montalcino, where the Allegrini family has created one of Tuscany’s most environmentally progressive estates. Vignamasso is a particularly intriguing departure from conventional Tuscan winemaking, with Sangiovese matured in amphora rather than relying on traditional oak. The approach strips away the seasoning of barrels and puts fruit, texture and the earthy character of the vineyard firmly in the spotlight.

The 2020 vintage brought beautifully ripe Sangiovese, while Montalcino’s elevation and cooling breezes helped preserve the acidity that gives the variety its unmistakable energy. Amphora ageing allows gentle oxygen exchange without imparting oak flavour, leaving the wine wonderfully transparent and tactile. The result is a fascinating expression of Tuscany: ancient winemaking technique meeting modern curiosity.

Bright ruby moving towards garnet, the nose opens with Morello cherry, wild strawberry and blood orange before revealing violet, dried thyme and fennel seed. With air come hints of terracotta, black tea, liquorice root and warm earth. The palate is supple yet energetic, with juicy red fruit carried by lively acidity and fine, gently grippy tannins. Sour cherry, orange peel and Mediterranean herbs run through the middle before a dry, earthy finish with a distinctive mineral bite.

This wants food with rustic Tuscan swagger: pappardelle with duck ragù, porchetta with fennel and crackling, grilled lamb skewers, ribollita loaded with cavolo nero or pecorino with truffle honey. 

Cellaring: Drink now to 2034.