2020 Umani Ronchi Maximo Half Bottle 375ml, Marches

Umani Ronchi is one of the leading family estates of Italy’s Adriatic coast, with the Bernetti family producing wines across Marche and Abruzzo since the 1950s. Maximo is their deliciously decadent sweet wine, made from Sauvignon Blanc affected by noble rot — Botrytis cinerea — which concentrates the berries while creating layers of honeyed, exotic flavour. 

Producing great botrytised wine requires a delicate combination of autumn humidity and dry conditions, allowing noble rot to develop without spoiling the fruit. The 2020 has now gained some bottle age, bringing greater complexity to its luscious fruit while retaining the acidity needed to keep all that sweetness beautifully balanced.

Deep golden yellow in the glass, the nose is wonderfully opulent with apricot conserve, peach and candied citrus alongside acacia honey and orange marmalade. With air come saffron, beeswax, dried pineapple and a little ginger spice. The palate is rich and silky, with luscious stone fruit and honey balanced by a bright seam of acidity. Marmalade, dried apricot and exotic spice roll through the middle before a long finish of citrus peel, honey and toasted almond.

This is where the cheese trolley earns its keep: foie gras on brioche, blue cheese with honeyed walnuts, tarte Tatin, crème brûlée or apricot and almond tart. My pick is a slab of Gorgonzola dolce — salty, creamy, funky cheese against cold, luscious Maximo is the sort of combination that makes dessert feel like a very good life decision.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.