2020 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Mosel

So many fresh floral notes, plenty of orange zest, sage and a whiff of smoke. Juicy stone fruit and lively acidity, with very well integrated natural grape sweetness that you feel less and less as the wine flows over your palate into the delicate, wet-stone and rock-salt finish. Drink or hold.

94 points James Suckling

Few names in the Mosel carry the quiet authority of Willi Schaefer. Based in Graach, this small, family run estate has built a near cult following for Rieslings that are all about finesse, transparency and site. Now guided by Christoph Schaefer, the wines remain incredibly traditional, low intervention, long fermentations and a deep respect for the steep slate vineyards that define the region. Graacher Himmelreich, with its blue Devonian slate and perfectly pitched slopes above the river, is one of the Mosel’s great sites for Kabinett.

The 2020 vintage leans into purity and precision. Aromatics are beautifully lifted, lime zest, green apple and white peach, with a delicate floral note that drifts through. There is a distinct slatey minerality, almost smoky, alongside a faint hint of fresh herbs that adds complexity without weight.

On the palate it is light and finely etched, with that classic Kabinett balance between gentle sweetness and racy acidity. The fruit feels weightless yet intense, citrus and orchard notes gliding across the palate, lifted by a line of vibrant acidity that keeps everything dancing. The finish is long and crystalline, with a subtle mineral grip and a refreshing, barely off dry feel that makes it incredibly moreish.

Winemaking is as traditional as it gets, spontaneous fermentations, long, slow development and minimal intervention, allowing the vineyard to speak clearly. The result is a wine of remarkable clarity and elegance, one that feels effortless yet incredibly detailed.

This is a brilliant partner for dishes with a bit of spice or freshness. Thai or Vietnamese flavours work beautifully, as do pork dishes or lightly spiced seafood. It is also just as enjoyable on its own, where its balance and energy can really shine.

There is no rush here. While irresistible now, it will age gracefully for fifteen to twenty years, developing more honeyed, toasty and mineral complexity while retaining its signature lift.