2021 Bernabeleva Vinos de Madrid Navaherreros Garnacha, Castilla La Mancha

Biodynamic. The sandy, granite-rich, highland terroir of San Martín de Valdeiglesias (in the westernmost sub region of the D.O. Vinos de Madrid) is a place where altitude, aspect and soil type combine with old-vine plantings to produce a beguiling and uniquely savoury style of Grenache. This Gredos pioneer’s vineyards are still chiefly based on founder Dr Álvarez Villamil’s original 1923 Garnacha and Albillo bush vines, which sit at around 800 metres altitude under the commanding peak of the Cerro de Guisando.

Bernabeleva’s entry-level Navaherreros Garnacha blend is made from fruit grown across the estate’s parcels. Across different soils, orientations and microclimates, the vine age ranges from 50 to 90 years, providing Grenache that deeply reflects the terroir and high-country origins. Fruit from each site is vinified and aged separately in a combination of 500-litre casks, stainless steel and concrete tanks (depending on the features of the vintage).

There’s just so much interest and deliciousness here. The palate is layered but powdery-fresh, with gentle yet persistent structure from extended time on skins. The overall impression is of a beautiful and balanced Garnacha of superb purity and finesse.