2021 Ca’ d’Gal Moscato d’Asti Canelli Sant'Ilario, Piedmont

This wine is simply a revelation. It’s drawn from a single hectare of 70-year-old vines, some 10 kilometres from Boido’s winery in Cassinasco, on a south-facing hillside with limestone-rich soils. Cassinasco is one of only 19 villages (out of 52 in the Moscato DOCG) included in the newly ratified Canelli DOCG. Moscato fruit from this subzone surrounding Canelli has grown since the 13th century and has always been associated with greatness. It is in the heart of the region, where the chalky soils and high altitude are perfect for Moscato.

For the fifth year (out of seven releases), this 2021 was awarded the coveted Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri—an extraordinary feat for a wine style so often associated with frivolity. Those glasses are well-earned here. It’s a mould-breaking wine of cut-glass purity and restraint, with a fine chalky texture and mineral zeal. Expect notes of fresh florals, ripe citrus and lime leaf, joined by a slight minty tone and some ‘bath salt’ minerality. The palate is fine-boned with a gentle approach, building powerfully through the palate. Then there’s a lick of salty, chalky freshness, seamlessly integrated acidity and an intense, lengthy finish that places this beauty in a class of its own.

This is a wine to serve chilled and unhurried — with fruit tarts, delicate cheeses, or as a standalone dessert in itself. It’s also an ideal partner for spicy dishes, especially Thai or Vietnamese cuisine.