2021 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco, Piedmont

The Vacca family has been living and working the vines at Cantina del Pino, one of the oldest estates in Barbaresco, since the 1920s when Giuseppe Vacca, bought the property. Branching out from the legendary Produttori del Barbaresco Cooperative, Renato Vacca (the great grandson of Giuseppe Vacca) convinced his father, Adriano, to start their own label in 1997. In 2013, Renato's wife Franca joined the winery, and took over winemaking when Renato sadly passed in 2020. This spent 2 years in older wood, bottled without filtration, and spent 1 year in bottle prior to release. Kirsch, balsam, and scrubby herbs light up the nose and carry through the medium bodied palate, woven with wild cherry, wild raspberry, plum, scrubby herbs and cracked white pepper. Tannins are ample and sticky, but well integrated into the fruit. Great energy and form now, and with time ahead. Give this time to open in the glass.

93 points Gismondi on Wine

Cantina del Pino is one of Barbaresco's most respected family estates, with roots that run deep into the region's history. The winery takes its name from the famous pine tree that stands atop the Ovello hill, a local landmark visible across much of the appellation. The Vacca family has been growing grapes here for generations, and today Renato Vacca continues to craft wines that honour Barbaresco's traditions while showcasing the remarkable quality of its vineyards. Few producers capture the elegance and authenticity of Nebbiolo with such consistency.

The 2021 Barbaresco is sourced from a selection of the estate's vineyards, including parcels from some of the appellation's most prized sites. The growing season is already regarded as one of Piedmont's finest in recent years, delivering fruit with exceptional balance, aromatic intensity and structure. Traditional fermentation and ageing in large oak casks allow the character of Nebbiolo and the vineyard to remain at centre stage.

Bright garnet red in colour, the bouquet is wonderfully expressive with aromas of rose petal, wild strawberry and red cherry layered with blood orange, violet and sweet spice. As the wine opens, notes of tobacco leaf, anise, forest floor and truffle emerge, revealing the complexity that makes mature Nebbiolo so compelling. The palate is finely detailed and beautifully balanced, combining vibrant red fruits with savoury earth, spice and mineral notes. Silky yet persistent tannins provide structure and longevity, while fresh acidity gives the wine energy and poise. The finish is long, graceful and intensely perfumed.

This is a classic partner for truffle risotto, braised veal shanks, duck ragù, porcini mushroom pasta or aged Parmigiano Reggiano. Although approachable with decanting, it has the pedigree to evolve beautifully over the next fifteen to twenty years, developing greater complexity and nuance with time in the cellar.