2021 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Gallina, Piedmont

Gallina is one of Barbaresco's most celebrated crus, a hillside vineyard prized for producing Nebbiolo with both power and refinement. Cantina del Pino has long been one of the vineyard's most important custodians, with the Vacca family farming these slopes for generations. The estate traces its roots to the historic Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative, where Renato Vacca's father played a key role before establishing Cantina del Pino as an independent winery. Today, Renato and his family continue to craft wines that beautifully express the character of Barbaresco's finest sites.

The Vacca family has been living and working the vines at Cantina del Pino, one of the oldest estates in Barbaresco, since the 1920s when Giuseppe Vacca, bought the property. Branching out from the legendary Produttori del Barbaresco Cooperative, Renato Vacca (the great grandson of Giuseppe Vacca) convinced his father, Adriano, to start their own label in 1997. In 2013, Renato's wife Franca joined the winery, and took over winemaking when Renato sadly passed in 2020. This spent 2 years in older wood, bottled without filtration, and spent 1 year in bottle prior to release. Kirsch, balsam, and scrubby herbs light up the nose and carry through the medium bodied palate, woven with wild cherry, wild raspberry, plum, scrubby herbs and cracked white pepper. Tannins are ample and sticky, but well integrated into the fruit. Great energy and form now, and with time ahead. Give this time to open in the glass.

93 points Gismondi On Wine

The Gallina vineyard sits in the commune of Neive, where calcareous marl soils and an ideal south facing exposure create wines of depth, aromatic complexity and ageing potential. The 2021 vintage is considered one of Piedmont's outstanding recent years, delivering remarkable balance between concentration, freshness and structure. Traditional fermentation and extended ageing in large oak casks preserve the purity of the fruit while allowing the vineyard's distinctive personality to shine through.

Bright garnet red in colour, the bouquet is captivating and complex, opening with aromas of rose petal, red cherry and wild strawberry alongside notes of blood orange, anise, dried herbs and sweet spice. With time in the glass, hints of tobacco, forest floor and truffle emerge. The palate is elegant yet powerful, combining vibrant red fruits with savoury layers and finely detailed tannins. Fresh acidity gives the wine remarkable energy and precision, while the finish lingers with notes of cherry, spice, earth and floral perfume.

This is a magnificent partner for truffle risotto, braised veal shanks, porcini mushroom pasta, slow cooked duck ragù or aged Parmigiano Reggiano. Although approachable with decanting, Gallina is built for the long haul and will continue to evolve beautifully over the next fifteen to twenty years, rewarding patience with increasing complexity and nuance.