2021 Castro Ventosa Valtuille Cepas Centenarias, Mencia

This is earthy with notes of violets and roses and hints of dark cherries. Medium-bodied and super elegant, with silky, delicate tannins and an ethereal finish. This is made from the Matalospardos parcel. A blend of mostly mencia with about 5% bastardo and 12% white varieties like palomino, treixadura and dona branca. This is fermented with 30% full clusters in 5,000-liter oak vat, then aged for 12 months in used French oak barrels. Drink now or hold.

97 points James Suckling

Castro Ventosa is one of Bierzo’s historic family estates, with the Pérez family growing vines around Valtuille de Abajo for generations. The modern reputation of the property is closely linked to Raúl Pérez, one of Spain’s most influential winemakers, whose fascination with old vines and individual parcels helped turn international attention towards Bierzo. Valtuille Cepas Centenarias is one of the estate’s great bottles, drawn from extraordinarily old vines around the family’s home village.

The name means “century old vines”, and Mencía forms the heart of vineyards planted as traditional field selections on Bierzo’s complex mix of clay, sand and stone. The old vines naturally produce small crops with remarkable concentration, while Valtuille’s elevation and Atlantic influence preserve freshness. The excellent 2021 vintage is particularly well suited to the style, delivering fragrance and detail alongside the depth expected from vines of this age.

Deep ruby with a bright crimson rim. Morello cherry, wild raspberry and blackberry open the nose, followed by violet and dried rose. Blood orange, liquorice and cracked pepper add lift, with graphite, dried thyme and a touch of smoky earth emerging underneath. The palate is concentrated without feeling heavy, its dark and red fruit carried by fresh acidity and fine, mineral tannins. Cherry, pepper, iron and crushed stone build towards a long, savoury finish.

Charred octopus with paprika and white beans is calling for a bottle, while grilled tuna with peppers, lamb cutlets with garlic, mushroom croquetas or smoky eggplant with chickpeas all sit happily alongside. Our pick is the octopus, with plenty of good olive oil and smoked paprika against Mencía’s dark fruit and mineral edge.

Cellaring: Drink now with a decant or cellar to 2040.