2021 Castro Ventosa Valtuille Rapolao, Mencia

This wine shows aromas of dark cherries, earth, crushed stones and plums. The palate is medium- to full-bodied with firm tannins, fresh acidity, plenty of fruit and a structured, penetrating finish. This was fermented with 30% full clusters in 5,000-liter oak vats, then aged for 12 months in used French oak barrels. Already drinkable but will evolve favorably.

97 points James Suckling

Castro Ventosa is deeply rooted in Valtuille de Abajo, where the Pérez family has cultivated vines for generations. The estate has become one of the reference points for Bierzo, with Raúl Pérez playing an important role in drawing attention to the extraordinary patchwork of old vineyards surrounding the village. Rapolao takes that idea down to a specific place, showing just how articulate Mencía can become when the vineyard rather than the region is allowed to lead the conversation.

El Rapolao is one of Valtuille’s most celebrated parajes, a cooler, elevated slope divided among a number of growers. Old vines and a complex mix of clay and stone produce Mencía with perfume, freshness and fine structure rather than sheer weight. The excellent 2021 vintage is particularly exciting here, giving the wine beautifully defined fruit and acidity with the depth to evolve for many years.

Bright ruby crimson, with wild raspberry, Morello cherry and redcurrant unfolding into violet and dried rose. Blood orange, cracked pepper and liquorice follow, joined by thyme, graphite and a faint ferrous note. The palate is finely drawn and energetic, with juicy red fruit flowing across fresh acidity and beautifully shaped, powdery tannins. Cherry and raspberry gradually become more savoury, leaving pepper, iron, dried flowers and crushed stone across the long finish.

Grilled tuna with roasted peppers and olives hits the right note, while charred octopus with paprika, duck with lentils, mushroom croquetas or smoky eggplant with chickpeas are equally tempting. Our pick is the tuna, kept pink in the middle with plenty of olive oil, capers and charred peppers alongside.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2040+.