2021 Croix & Courbet Côtes du Jura En Beaumont Savagnin Ouillé, Jura

100% Savagnin (ouillé). This is our second allocation of En Beaumont, a highly regarded lieu-dit of Château-Chalon. The vineyard is farmed by Courbet himself and is currently in organic conversion. The Savagnin vines here were planted in 1962, 1985 and 1991 and are rooted in gently sloping clay and limestone scree (60-80 cm deep) over blue and grey marl. Courbet believes the chalky soils of En Beaumont—carved from the dramatic cliffs that surround the village—respond best to barrel maturation, so this cuvée is raised in large oak for 18 months. Again, there is no sulphur addition until bottling. The wine is labelled as Côtes du Jura as the Chateau-Chalon AOC is only for Vin Jaune.

This is a blinder. The most layered and Burgundian in depth and structure, this is positively exploding on the nose with iodine/oyster shell, nectarine, and complex nutty, buttery hints. Super mineral, citrussy and racy. The nose offers the same crystalline, stone fruit notes and iodine, with those sweet, leesy hints, all leading to a brilliant, driven, rocky, powdery, lingering close. So great. At the table, this could work with anything that can be matched with great white Burgundy (even if it has its own unique persona). Again, it’s a wine that really enjoys a decant at this early stage.