2021 Cullen Diana Madeline Cabernet, Margaret River

The newly released DM Cabernet is a particularly auspicious one, celebrating what would have been the 100th birthday of Diana Madeline herself. No doubt, she would have been delighted with the wine. In fact, it is very hard to remember when this Cabernet would not have been amongst the very best released in this country. This latest release is likely to be seen as one of the finest they have ever made. This is not just a great Margaret River wine, it is a great wine. Deep opaque purple hue. The nose is a whirling dervish of spices, cherries, tobacco leaves, cassis, black fruits, leather and dried herbs with hints of cloves and blackberries. The structure is immaculate while the wine is focused, with the intensity maintained the full length to a very long finish supported by silky tannins. Certainly young now, and although it really is enjoyable, expect this wine to give great pleasure over the next two decades. It is going to get even better. This will surely be one of the top wines of the year, even at this early stage.

98 points Ken Gargett for Wine Pilot February 2023

This is a triumph for the vineyard in what was a challenging year in Margaret River. Low yields, birds and rain events all conspired to make things tough, but a rigorous biodynamic approach in the vineyard and later in the winery has resulted in a magnificent expression of a slightly cooler climate Margaret River Cabernet. High end florals on the nose with notes of violet and red berry overpaying the deeper blackcurrant concentration. The oak is well managed and integrated with the tannins firm and chalky providing the structure to support extended ageing. A worthy commemoration of family matriarch Diana Cullen who would have been 100 this year.

98 points Ray Jordan for Wine Pilot  July 2023

The 2021 Diana Madeline is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon (91%), Merlot (4%), Cabernet Franc (3%) and Malbec (2%). The only other time since the first 1995 vintage of this wine (formerly labeled as the Cabernet Merlot) that the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon has crested 90% or higher was the 2016 vintage, which saw 93% Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2021 vintage in Margaret River was an interesting one, with several climate curveballs thrown at viticulturists during key times during the harvest season. Here, the fruit was handpicked on biodynamic fruit and flower days across five picks from the middle of March to the Super Moon flower day two weeks later. The wine was matured in French oak for 15 months (50% new). This 2021 is a lean, mineral rendition of the Diana Madeline, with bay leaf, rose petals, cassis, bramble and black tea forming layers that settle in the mouth. The tannins are grippy and very fine, causing one to chew slightly as one drinks. This is ethereal, as these wines often are, yet with line and length that belies its pretty curves and textures. The perfect, ideal apogee for this wine's drinking window is in the future. Get it while you can.

96+ points Erin Larkin robertparker.com

Very deep, bright purple-red colour; wonderful fragrance of red and blue fruits, violets and subtle herbal notes, the palate is very full bodied and loaded with tannins, a big wine of awesome concentration and arresting structure, with terrific drive and power. Long, long finish. It's just a babe and has a big future. This really has some wow factor. 21 Jan 2023 Drink 2026–2051

97 points Huon Hooke for The Real Review

Diana Madeline. The name evokes a lot of emotions, for what the woman stood for then and what the wine stands for now. The 2021 vintage equals 50 years of cabernet sauvignon plantings at Cullen. When released in early 2023, it was on what would have been her 100th birthday. It’s a wine that can come from nowhere else, so strong is its sense of place. Expect to swoon over aromas of roses, violets and mulberries doused in baking spices, a ferruginous quality as much as detailed if persuasive tannins. It’s complex, complete and structured. Gosh, what a wine. What a woman. The perfect combination.

97 points Jane Faulkner for Halliday Wine Companion

A nose of blackcurrant, tobacco leaf, graphite and moss. Medium- to full-bodied with chewy, structured tannins. Linear onto the palate with an array of black fruit and savory herbs. Oolong and bark. Lovely balance and depth. A bit closed at the moment but will open and expand with some age. 91% cabernet sauvignon, 4% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 2% malbec. From biodynamically grown grapes. Best after 2025. Screw cap.

96 points jamessuckling.com

Few Australian wines command the respect of Cullen Diana Madeline. First produced in 1983 and named in honour of Diana Cullen, one of Margaret River's true pioneers, it has become one of the country's most celebrated Cabernet based wines. The Cullen family established their Wilyabrup vineyard in 1971, helping to lay the foundations for Margaret River's rise to international prominence. Today, Vanya Cullen continues that legacy, farming the estate biodynamically and crafting wines that express the extraordinary character of this remarkable site.

The Diana Madeline is sourced entirely from the Cullen estate vineyard in Wilyabrup, arguably Margaret River's most prestigious subregion for Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2021 vintage is already being hailed as one of the region's modern classics, delivering fruit of exceptional concentration, balance and purity. Cabernet Sauvignon forms the backbone of the blend, supported by small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot, each contributing additional layers of complexity and structure.

Deep crimson purple in colour, the aromas are captivating from the outset. Blackcurrant, mulberry and dark cherry are layered with violet, bay leaf and cedar, while notes of graphite, cocoa and fine tobacco emerge with time in the glass. The palate is both powerful and effortlessly refined, combining concentrated cassis and dark berry fruit with remarkable freshness and detail. Ultra fine tannins provide structure without heaviness, while the natural acidity gives the wine energy and poise. The finish is exceptionally long and seamless, revealing layers of spice, mineral complexity and savoury nuance that continue to unfold long after each sip.

This is a magnificent wine for the cellar and the dining table alike. Pair it with dry aged ribeye, herb crusted lamb rack, venison loin, mushroom and truffle pithivier or aged hard cheeses. While already stunning with careful decanting, the wine is built for the long haul and will continue to evolve beautifully for two decades or more.